Your pool will naturally lose some water to evaporation, some to splash-out and some to backwash wastewater. You may also gain water from rainfall. My rule of thumb is that if you’re routinely adding more than two inches of water to your pool per week, you may have a leak. It is worth spending some time and money to repair.

Pools are meant to be watertight but sealants will deteriorate while other parts of your pool shift and settle or just plain wear out. Pools can leak through any of the fittings or accessories, plumbing, or even right through the shell. It is important to repair leaks, not only to save water, heat, and chemicals, but also to prevent undermining pool structural components and washing away fill dirt.

Leak detection is a highly specialized branch of the industry. Ninety five percent of all phone calls I get from worried pool owners about a leak turn out to be inexpensive to repair. So relax, if you can’t take care of the problem yourself a professional will be equipped to do so for you. If you suspect a leak, review the following things before calling for service:

Is the pool leaking only with the equipment on?

This may indicate a pressure-side return leak. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the pressure side is under pressure. This can open up small drips into spraying gushers. Check the waste or backwash line for water consistently running. One inch of your pool water can equal 500 gallons.

Is the pool leaking only with the equipment off?

This usually indicates a suction-side leak. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the suction side is under vacuum. Air can be drawn in through otherwise leaking voids. You may notice air in the pump basket (if you have a clear lid), air bubbling out of the return lines, or air repeatedly built up inside the filter tank. Use tape or a pencil to mark water levels. Is the pump basket lid on tight with a good, lubed o-ring?

Does the pool leak all the time?

This does not rule out leaks in the plumbing, but turns a suspicious eye on the shell of the pool, looking for cracks in the plaster or tears in the vinyl. Look closely at the tile line and look real closely inside of the skimmer(s). The most common leak we fix is a separation between the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool. This is easily fixed with some pool putty. If you see something that looks like a crack, drop some of your pH indicator test reagent near it with your pump shut off and water still. See if the dye is sucked into the crack. Under water lights can and do leak as well. Especially the conduit that runs from the light niche to the junction box. Filling the opening of the conduit in the back of the light niche with putty, silicone, or caulk is a way to fix this problem.

Are there leaks at the equipment pad?

Look closely at the filter, pump, heater, and valves. Check the ground for moisture. Turn the pump on and off looking closely for spraying water when the pump is turned off.

Does the water seem to stabilize at any particular level?

You may be able to close the skimmer valve and allow the water level to drop below the skimmer. If it keeps going, we can rule out the skimmer (although there can always be more than one leak). The underwater light is a common leak source. If the water stabilizes, dye test around this level very carefully. Look for small debris which may have been sucked into the crack or void. This is a good indication of a leak.

Are there any wet areas around the pool?

Take a walk around the pool’s edge and between the pool and the equipment pad. Check for wet soil and eroded areas.

Is your pool equipped with a vinyl liner?

If so, there are special considerations. Look for sinkholes where sand under the liner may have washed away. Look for tears or separations around all fittings: skimmer, returns, cleaner line, etc. Pay close attention to steps and corners, where the liner may be stretched more than normal. If an animal had the misfortune to fall into your pool you may notice claw marks (tears) just below the water line. Spending time under water with a mask may be required to find a small leak in the liner. When liners become old they may have many pinhole leaks. There can always be more than one leak.

Unsure of your evaporation rate?

Place a bucket of water beside the pool and mark both the water in the bucket and the pool water level. Wait 24 hours then check the loss of both. If the pool loses more water than the bucket, then you have a leak.

Prices for leak detection and repair will vary widely. Of course, charges will be lowered with your help of uncovering the facts (see above) needed to determine the leaks location. Average charges range from $200 or more depending on the extent of your leak. Higher prices will be realized for below ground work; however, many leaks are fixed within one hour. Many pools leak in more than one area so monitoring is important after any repair is made. There may be additional charges for cutting and replacing concrete and for SCUBA (under-water) work.

Swimming Pool Leak Detection is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

Related Swimming Pool Posts

No related posts.

Pool openings in the Northeast US typically range $175-$300. You can often save money by doing some of the work yourself, i.e. removing the cover, or vacuuming the pool.

Here is a list of things you can do yourself to help lower the cost of opening your pool in the Spring:

*

Remove, clean, fold and store pool cover.
*

Testing water balance; adjusting calcium, Alkalinity and pH levels
*

Replacing stored items; ladders, auto cleaner, baskets, plugs, gauges, etc.
*

Inspect and test electrical service to pumps, lights, heaters, etc. Load testing.
*

Lube plugs, fittings, valves and o-rings.
*

Flood lines, prime-up, start-up and adjust filtration equipment.
*

Brush tiles and scrub skimmers with cleanser.
*

Blow off, then hose pool deck.
*

Skim pool surface. Vacuum pool to waste using portable vacuum equipment
*

Super chlorinate to breakpoint levels with liquid chlorine.
*

Brush pool walls and steps. Re-check chemical levels in 12-24 hrs, adjust as needed.
*

Backwash filter if pressure gauge rises 8-10 lbs, or flow diminishes considerably.

Snowbelt

1.
Remove the pool cover:

*
Solid Covers:

Use a small cover pump to remove rain and snow melt. As the water is being pumped, “tighten up” the cover by pulling on its edges, so the water gathers into one easily pumped area. A “bag type” leaf net and your pool brush on the pole can be used to remove leaves and debris. After water and debris is removed, drain water bags (or remove whatever is being used to hold down sides of cover). Water bags can be folded or rolled after being hosed clean. Remove cover quickly by fan-folding it into 3 – 5 ft folds on one end of the pool. Take cover to open area where it can be unfolded and hosed clean. A sloping yard or driveway makes this easier. When cover is cleaned, allow to dry or use blower to hasten drying. Fan fold (accordion-style) cover to facilitate its installation in the fall. Roll tightly and wrap with rope or twine to prevent it from unrolling during storage. Place in a dry, rodent free location for its summer storage.

*
Mesh Covers:

Use broom, brush, leaf net, hose and/or blower to remove leaves and debris from top and edges of cover. Remove springs from anchors with removal tool. Use 3/4″ pipe to lever springs from anchors, if removal tool cannot be located. Use 1/4″ hex key (Allen wrench) to put anchors into the down position, flush with the deck. It’s good practice to clean with hose and lubricate with a light oil. Fan fold cover (accordion-style) to facilitate its reinstallation in the fall. Use hose, broom or blower to clean off cover as it’s folded. Fold it seam to seam, then roll like a sleeping bag and stuff it into storage bag. Place on chair to dry for a few hours before moving it INDOORS for summer storage. If storing outdoors, hang up off the ground, and / or use moth balls to repel rodents from nesting in the cover.

2.
Remove expansion plugs (Freeze Plugs) from skimmers and wall returns

Put plugs in Ziploc bag and place near cover for use. Discard any that are dry-rotted and/or cracked. Replace any wall fittings.

3.
Reassemble filter, pump, heater, etc.

Replace drain plugs into pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, etc. If above-ground pool, reattach hoses removed at closing. Replace pump and skimmer baskets, pressure gauges, pool ladders, diving boards etc. Use thread sealant such as Teflon tape on all threaded plugs, connections. Do not over-tighten! If your filter is a D.E. powder tight filter, make sure clamp band is tight and properly positioned. (It was probably removed in the fall to have the filter grids pulled out and cleaned with a hose, so make sure it was re-installed correctly) Place filter valve to filter position and open air bleeder (beneath pressure gauge, usually). Open all incoming valves (before pump) and all return side valves (after filter). Lubricate valves and o-rings as needed. Fill pump basket with water from pool or hose. Replace pump lid tightly. Look for leaks out of pump. Double check that all valves and pressure relief orifices are open. Place filter valve in proper position. Slide valves (push-pull valves) should be in the down position on most DE filters and in the up position for Pac-Fab sand filters. Multiport valves should be on the filter position. {Or…the method I use is to start the pump with the valve in the Drain to Waste position, and when water begins to run out the waste line, shut off the pump. Place valve into the Recirculate position and run pump until water flows into the pool. Shut off pump, switch the valve to the Filter position to complete the process.}

4.
Turn on power to pump & start system

Watch pressure on gauge closely with your hand on power switch! Turn off if pressure rises above normal range; usually above 30 psi. Recheck that all return side valves are open. If no pressure builds up at all, and pump is not pumping, shut off power after 1 minute. Repeat priming process mentioned before. If pump still won’t prime up, try closing main drain valve, if present, and starting off the skimmer alone. If pump still won’t catch prime after 5 or so attempts, check incoming pipes for air leaks. Repair as needed. Add 1 lb of DE powder per 5 sq. ft of filter area into the skimmer (only if you have a DE filter, of course). Do this quickly, within 2 minutes of starting filter. If you have a cartridge filter replace cartridge element every 2 years. Sand filters should have their sand changed every 5 years.

Once system is started, adjust valves and return fittings for proper flow. Check for leaks around pump and filter; repair as needed. Note start-up pressure on filter gauge. When psi is 10 lbs above this number, backwash the filter. Empty pump basket also at this time, or earlier if you notice a drop in filter pressure. If you have a heater, follow pilot lighting and test firing instructions, usually printed on back of front heater door. Operate to test and adjust all other equipment.

5.
Equipment inspection, Safety inspection

Spring opening time is ideal for annual preventative maintenance steps such as cleaning, lubricating, inspecting and replacing components in all of your system equipment. Consult your owner’s manual and give everything a good inspection. Look for and correct hazardous electrical conditions, such as broken conduit or connectors, lack of proper grounding or bonding, wires exposed to weather, etc. Inspect pool for tripping and slipping hazards. Check again for pressure leaks which may result in pipes or equipment blowing apart. Note water level and watch the pool for leakage during the following few days.

6.
Clean pool

Skim pool, vacuum pool, brush pool. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best, also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves/debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, Vacuum Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. To do this, you may need to fill pool to the very top, so you can waste 1-3″. Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. Brush the pool thoroughly.

7.
Check and Balance Chemistry

Use a good quality pool water test kit. Replace test kit reagents every spring (annually). Follow pool water test instructions carefully to obtain accurate results.

Alkalinity first. If below the range of 80 – 120 ppm, add Total Alkalinity Increaser (Sodium Bicarbonate or baking soda) at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gals to raise Alkalinity levels 10 ppm. Calcium level should be 180 – 220 ppm. Add Calcium Hardness Increaser (Calcium Chloride) at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gals to raise Calcium levels 5 ppm. Test pH level after water has circulated 8 hrs. pH level should be 7.4 – 7.6, add pH Increaser (soda ash or sodium carbonate) if the water is acidic/ corrosive (below 7.4). Add pH Decreaser (muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate) if water is basic/ scaling (above 7.6). A good test kit will allow you to perform an acid demand or base demand test to determine exact amounts of acid or base needed (demanded). A clarifier may be used to help filter efficacy. After balanced chemicals have been circulated for 8 hrs, shock or super-chlorinate the pool. Add granular Shock Treatment (Calcium Hypochorite) to pool at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gallons, or use Clorox Bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite) at a rate of 5 gals per 10,000 gallons/pool water. Cyanuric Acid levels should be tested if chlorine is used (outdoor pools only). Add CYA (Conditioner or Stabilizer) to raise if Cyanuric Acid levels are below 30 – 50 ppm.

Always read instructions on packaging for proper handling, treatments and application of the pool chemicals. Distribute them broadly and never mix chemicals. Brushing pool after adding chemicals is helpful to distribution. Re-test water daily and readjust if needed. Backwash filter after 24 hrs. If algae is still present, re-shock pool, or add “kill” dosage of quality algaecide. Your pool is ready for use when chlorine level drops below 3.0 ppm, and water is clear. It may be a good move to have an annual check-up to your pool by a pool professional, which is why many people use pool companies to open the pool. If there is a pool store nearby, you should at least take a water sample in to be tested by another test kit.

Sunbelt

If you didn’t really winterize the pool, but rather reduced the amount of filter time and attention you gave the pool, then you can probably skip items 1-3 above. But follow 4-7 to keep things sanitary and working safe and properly. Again, consider hiring a professional pool company, at least once annually to double check your work and spot problems or maintenance items you may have missed.

Spring Swimming Pool Openings is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

Related Swimming Pool Posts

1. Pool winterization. Tips on closing a swimming pool.

O-Rings…

There are many items worth checking through out the season. Simple checks are as common as making sure the pump lid o-ring is properly lubricated. Products like Jack’s Lube, Liberty Lube and Magic Lube can give the proper lubrication to o-rings to help maintain longer life of the o-rings.

Pump Baskets…

Another thing that should be checked is your pump basket for cracks, and splits. A cracked pump basket can allow debris to clog your impeller. This can cause loss of flow, that can lead to poor filtration, and other water clarity problems.

D.E. Filters…

For D.E. filter owners, it is a good practice for you to clean the filter grids thoroughly mid season. Opening the filter and removing the entire grid assembly and hosing off all the D.E. from the grids is a wise move. During regular backwashing you get about 80% of the D.E. out, so if 20% is left that can add up to a lot of extra D.E. in your filter. With too much D.E. in the filter, the grids can bridge together and cause high filter pressure and poor filtration.

Ladders and Diving Boards…

It is VERY important to check your ladder, handrail, and diving board bolts and hardware. When the bolts are not tightened properly it can be dangerous, and cause injuries. If you have a diving board, always check it for cracks and rusty bolts. Also check your ladder and handrail bolts. It is important that they are tight. Make sure the ladder or handrail do not rock. If this happens, it is wise to replace the hardware to prevent injury.

Equipment Area…

You may want to check your equipment area for leaves, grass and mulch. It may look nice, but heavily landscaped equipment areas cause problems. If equipment is covered with various types of debris it can cause the pump to over heat and wear out or burn up.

Electric…

Check to make sure all wire connections and conduits are intact. If it is split or cracked, electrical tape is not the proper repair, have them replaced. Unsafe electrical conditions can cause injury, or even death. Almost all electrical work should be done by a licensed professional.

Skimmer Baskets…

Another area you will want to check is the skimmer baskets. Check for cracks and splits. This can cause unwanted debris in the pump basket. Also check the skimmer housing for cracks. Most small cracks can be repaired before they crack completely and need to be replaced. This is a VERY costly repair.

Safety Covers…

For those of you that have safety covers, such as Loop-Loc safety covers, you should check your anchors to make sure they thread out, or pop-up properly. Also check to see if they are still secure in the concrete or wood deck. If the anchors are not anchored properly have them re-secured as soon as possible.

In-Floor Cleaning Systems…

On in-floor cleaning systems, at the distribution system, there is an in-line filter. It is located at the union going to the unit. This filter should be checked and cleaned regularly. If it is clogged, it can cause the in-floor system to not work properly.

Heaters…

Pool owners with heaters should test the heater from time to time if it is not being used. Not only to make sure it is working, but to prevent rodent infestation. These pesky critters can do a lot of damage to heaters. Some desert regions even go as far as doing rodent proofing around the pool area.

Auto Fills…

It is wise to check your auto fills from time to time. Make sure the float operates properly, and shuts off at the appropriate level. When these floats malfunction they will over flow your pool, and raise your water bill. Better safe than sorry!

Seasonal Swimming Pool Check Ups is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

Related Swimming Pool Posts

1. Pool winterization. Tips on closing a swimming pool.
2. Swimming Pool deck equiptment information, Ladders, Diving Boards
3. Spring Swimming Pool Openings

My pool has a bathtub ring…

Floating oils, dirt & waste can combine to form a scum line around the pool; this is why tile, an easily cleanable surface, is placed at water level around the perimeter of the pool. There are many tile cleanser products available which are applied with a scrubbing pad or brush and a little elbow grease. Abrasive cleaners work well, but should be avoided in vinyl lined pools, or pools using products such as Baquacil. On vinyl pools use a vinyl cleaner such as Armor All Cleaner (not conditioner), and on Baquacil treated pools, use a cleanser made without chlorine.

Cleaning the scum inside of the skimmer frequently will help to keep the tile cleaner, as scum sticks itself to clean plastic. Using enzyme products can reduce or eliminate the amount of attention to the scum line as the work to “eat” scum producing substances.

The floor of my pool is covered in leaves…

Put on your back brace, heavy leaf removal can be hard work. At this stage, vacuuming through the skimmer or using automatic pool cleaners are very ineffective methods; both will clog up too quickly. The method of choice for the pool janitor is using a leaf rake attached to a telescopic pole. Slowly push the leaf rake along the floor, scooping up leaves into the bag. Work the pool in sections, trying not to create leaf-stirring currents. It takes practice and a strong back, but it can be very effective.

Another method is the use of a Leaf Bagger, a product by Jandy Industries. Attached to a telescopic pole and a garden hose, the Leaf Bagger uses venturi action to suck leaves up into a large attached bag as you roll the unit over the leaves. It’s slow going, but you won’t have to stop to empty the bag too often.

My pool always has !@#$%* floating on top…

Firstly, you want to check the influent valving before the pump. The pool janitor recommends that the skimmer pull in about 75% of the total flow into the pump. For example, if your pool has two influent valves, a main drain and a skimmer, close the main drain halfway while leaving the skimmer valve fully open. If your pool has an attached spa, crack the spa drain valve open slightly, or leave it closed altogether.

If you haven’t purchased a leaf rake, or a “drag bag”, as I sometimes call them, and are holding on to that flat “dip & flip” net that your builder gave you; you are creating your own hell. I strongly encourage the purchase of a nice leaf rake. There are also chemical products which are used to keep surface tension high, moving small debris to the sides of the pool. Another possible problem could be the condition of the weir in the skimmer; you know, that flapper gate thing. Make sure it is operating properly so that it creates a draw or “waterfall” into the skimmer basket. Also check that the water level is not so high that it is above the opening of the skimmer.

Lastly, you may need to trim some of those trees and bushes near the pool. My pool, for example, was specifically built with no vegetation anywhere within wind shot!

What about automatic cleaners?

Automatic cleaners are terrific time-savers, and they also help to distribute and circulate the water while (some of them) decreasing the work load required of the filter. There is a wide range of cleaners available, for all types of pools and budgets. Cleaners run from $99.99 to $2,999.99. The more expensive models will vacuum more debris, more efficiently and without compromising the filter system.

Do I need to brush my pool regularly?

Your pool brush attaches to the telescopic pole, and is most commonly used to brush algae off of the walls. To quote the Pool Janitor; “Plaster pools like to be brushed…” Brushing your pool will keep dirt from occupying the small pores and starting small organic farms. Steel bristled brushes, called algae brushes, are very effective on, you guessed it, algae. Do not use a steel brush on a vinyl lined pool.

Done regularly, brushing can also reduce the time spent vacuuming. Brush from the shallow end towards the deep end in overlapping strokes. Circle the pool towards the main drain, and much of the dirt will be swept up into the filter in this manner.

How do I vacuum my pool?

Unless you have an automatic cleaner, an in-floor cleaning system or an automatic cover, or sometimes even if you do…you’ll need to manually vacuum the debris. And here’s how…

Roll your vacuum hose straight along the length of the pool. Attach one of the cuffed ends onto your vacuum head which is attached to your telescopic pole. Extend the pole and place the head (with the hose attached) into the water so that it rests on the floor of the pool. Point the head across the pool so that it doesn’t roll down the slope towards the deep end and prop the pole up against the pool’s edge.

From the point where the hose surfaces, begin pushing the hose straight down into the water, hand over hand, until you reach the other end. This is filling the hose up with water so there is no air in it which may cause difficulties for the pump when you attach the hose to the skimmer. Another method of “priming the hose” is to hold the cuffed end firmly over a return fitting to force the air out of the end attached to the vacuum head.

Once the hose is primed, remove the skimmer lid and the basket and stick the hose end into the hole at the bottom of the skimmer. If it sucks it in tightly, great. If not, you may need a threaded hose adapter to achieve a tight fit. Now, the suction that was at the hole is now at the vacuum head. Do not lift the head out of the water with the hose attached, or you will fill the hose with air, losing prime, and possibly drawing air into the pump.

Roll the vacuum head on the floor, over the debris, and VOILA!, you’re vacuuming. The suction will gradually decrease as the pump basket fills with vacuumed debris. When the pressure gauge drops and/or suction is sufficiently decreased, stop the pump and empty the basket. If pressure rises significantly, stop the pump and backwash the filter. Continue in this manner until the pool is clean.

I get no suction when I try to vacuum…

Most systems require adjustment to the valving to increase flow in the line through which you are vacuuming. You may want to close all the valves except the one on the line you are vacuuming through. On some systems, closing too many suction valves will cause the pump to cavitate, which occurs when it is starved for water. If the pump begins to shudder and make interesting noises, open the valves until this ceases.

If your suction still sucks, check that the filter is clean and the pump basket has been cleaned. Before vacuuming debris into the pump basket, always make sure the basket is locked into place properly so that debris cannot bypass it and clog the impeller.

My pump loses prime when I try to vacuum…

If you notice that your pump begins to draw in air when you connect the hose into the skimmer, possibly drawing in so much air that the pump loses its prime of water, it probably originates from an old, dry rotted hose with holes in it, or a cavitating pump drawing air in through the plumbing or valving.

To check the hose, hold one end tightly against your thigh while you make a tight seal with the other end around your mouth. Blow into the hose; you should feel very strong resistance. If you can blow easily, the hose has one or more holes or splits in it, and you may be able to hear the air being drawn through when it’s hooked up for vacuuming.

When a vacuum hose is hooked into the skimmer and perhaps some valves are closed to increase suction, we are increasing the “vacuum pressure” in the line, creating a front pressure on the pump. This can cause the pump to draw air in places it normally wouldn’t under lower pressure. This situation should be corrected by locating the air source and making appropriate repairs. (Repair info, see pumps)

When I vacuum, the dirt passes right through…

When vacuuming fine, silty dirt or debris, you may notice a cloudy stream of dirt coming back into the pool via the return. This can continue slowly, long after you stop vacuuming, and can create a frustrating cycle for the pool janitor at your pool. More common in sand filters than in other types, the dirt can be pushed right through the filter, especially one which may need a sand replacement. Indeed, this situation may indicate internal filter problems. It may also indicate a problem with the filter control valve. Old, loose multiport or push-pull valves can allow water to bypass the filter and return to the pool unfiltered. For more info on valves, click on link.

Another possibility is that the pump is oversized for the filter, and is pushing the water so hard, it pushes dirt right through the filter medium. A sand filter actually works a little better when it’s a little dirty; the added dirt helps to trap more dirt, so don’t backwash prior to vacuuming a pool with a sand filter. You may also use filter aids, added through the skimmer, which provide a gelatinous layer on top of the sand bed to help trap dirt. Another tip is to vacuum to waste, especially if the debris is a fine silt that can clog the filter quickly. To do this, overfill the pool first, and set the multiport valve to the ‘Drain’/ ‘Vacuum to Waste’ position. Roll out the backwash hose, and vacuum the dirt (and water) right out of the pool…to waste.

My coping and deck have become discolored…

Leaves and dirt may stain concrete surfaces or, after removing the winter cover, you may see a pronounced color difference. Pressure washing can remove these soils and restore original brightness to concrete and coping stones. A light acid washing on the coping stones also works very well, and algae or mildew can be lifted by scrubbing in a paste of calcium hypochlorite. Read all precautions before working with these dangerous chemicals in this manner.

My tiles have crusty white deposits…

Called efflorescence, this calcium deposit usually originates from grout or setting mortar. To remove, scrape it off the tile/wall, and/or acid wash it. There are products available such as CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust remover), which can be purchased at your local hardware store, will work well for such tasks. Another method for removing calcium deposits is the pumice stone. Pumice is a light porous glassy lava stone that can be rubbed over a pool stain to remove it. You can get a pumice stone that can attach to your tele-pole or a pumice stone that has a handle you can swim with. Works great on cement stains, berry stains and paint.

My plaster is stained…

Dirt, leaf tannins, rust and other minerals can stain the finish of your plastered pool. If the stain is organic; left from a leaf or acorn for example, a small amount of granular chlorine added at that location and allowed to settle on the stain will usually remove it instantly. Other non-organic stains will not be removed by chlorine. Do not place chlorine tablets directly into the pool…they will stain and etch the plaster.

If chlorine doesn’t work, acid usually will. Draining and acid washing will remove a thin layer of plaster (and stains), exposing fresh, new looking plaster beneath. A No-Drain acid wash can also be performed, with varying results. For localized stains , a stain master tool can be used to deliver acid directly to the stain. Stains can also be sanded with pumice stones or wet/dry sandpaper.

The POOL JANITOR, FAQ on pool cleaning topics is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

Related Swimming Pool Posts

1. Pool Cleaning Equipment

Snowbelt

1.
Balance the water chemistry:

Approximately 3 – 7 days prior to closing the pool, adjust your water balance within the ranges below:
*

pH: 7.2 – 7.6
*

Alkalinity: 80 – 120 ppm
*

Calcium Hardness: 180 – 220 ppm

Then, shock the pool with a Chlorine Shock or a Non-Chlorine Shock, at least 1lb per 10,000 gallons (follow package directions). Allow the chlorine level to return to 1.0 – 3.0 ppm before adding any winter algaecide and your pool cover. Chlorine tends to break down both algaecides and [floating] pool covers.

2.
Remove skimmer baskets, wall fittings, cleaners, solar blankets, ladders from the pool.

Put these in a safe location during the winter. Don’t coil pool cleaners hoses tight.

3.
Lower water level in pool.

Using the filter pump, or a submersible pump, lower the level 12″ – 18″ below the skimmer for mesh covers, and 3″ – 6″ below the tile for solid, floating covers. If you are using an Aquador skimmer cover on aboveground or inground pools for some vinyl lined pools, the water level will not need to be lowered.

4.
Drain all pumping, filtering, heating and chlorinating equipment.

Every pump, filter, heater and chlorinator has drain plugs to allow water to drain out. All water must be drained or blown out or it will freeze and crack. After draining, D.E. filter grids or Cartridge filters should be removed and cleaned thoroughly. If the filter and pump is small enough to remove it and store it indoors, this may be desirable. If not, using a small amount of air from a shop vacuum, compressor or Mighty Vac is good to blow out any water that may still be in the equipment.

5.
Lubricate

Fall closing of the pool is a good time to lubricate the pump lid o-ring o-rings with Magic Lube. If you have a push-pull valve (also known as a slide valve) on the filter, lubricate it’s o-rings as well. If you have a gas heater with cast iron plugs, lubricate these threads or leave the plugs in after draining to prevent rusting.

6.
Clean pool

Skim pool, vacuum pool, brush pool. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best. Also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves/debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, Vacuum Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. Brush the pool thoroughly. The pool should be as clean and clear as possible before covering.

7.
Winterize the plumbing to and from the pool

If you have an inground pool, you should blow out the lines using a Mighty Vac to blow air from the skimmer, through the equipment, and back to the pool. Then plug the lines at the pool using expansion plugs. If you don’t blow the lines, add Swimming Pool Antifreeze into the line (follow package directions). Above ground pools usually just need to disconnect the hoses to and from the pump and filter, and plug the wall outlets.

8.
Add winterizing algaecide and other floaters.

Remember not to add algaecide and shock at the same time. This tends to result in the chlorine breaking down the algaecide. High chlorine levels can also be harsh to floating solid pool covers. For winter chemical kits, click here.

9.
Cover the pool.

A tight fit of your pool cover is essential. Your cover should not have holes or gaps where leaves and debris may enter the pool. A mesh safety cover provides the highest protection and safety. Solid pool covers are not safe and will require a cover pump or siphon to remove rain water and snow melt. Water Bags or AquaBloks are used to secure an inground solid pool cover. Above ground pool covers use a cable/winch device to secure the cover around the pool. Air Pillows are used in above ground pools to absorb the expansion of ice inside the pool. In areas of high wind, an above ground pool owner will find wall bags or cover seal useful products. A leaf net is very useful if you have a lot of trees surrounding your pool.

Sunbelt

In areas where it rarely gets below freezing temperatures, many people simply reduce the amount of filtration time per day, and also will find that the pool needs fewer chemicals. Covering the pool, even if not winterizing, will reduce cleaning and chemical and filtering demand even further.

Pool winterization. Tips on closing a swimming pool. is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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It used to be that all pools built had the expansion joint between the perimeter coping and the pool deck caulked or filled with elastomeric sealant 30 days after the concrete was poured. This was holding up the checks to the builders, I was told, so they sort of stopped mentioning it.

It is well worth mentioning. The expansion joint is an important interface between the pool and the deck. These two independent structures need to remain independent. Keeping debris out of the joint ensures that the joint is “true” and the two structures are not in contact with each other. When they do come in contact, the pool may develop a crack in the tile, which is usually an indication that the “beam” has cracked all the way through. The beam is defined as the top 6 or 8 inches of the pool wall which holds the tile & coping. Beam damage gets worse with time, eventually crumbling, requiring beam reconstruction. To avoid this costly expense, caulk those joints! Caulking also keeps out water which can freeze and expand. This can damage the coping, beam and eventually, the tile.

A good caulk job starts with good surface prep. The sides of the joint must be clean, dry, rough and solid. Backer rod foam should be placed in the joint (don’t use sand) to give the caulk something to sit on top of. The joint is taped off to keep things neat, and caulk is shot or troweled into the joint to a depth of 3/8 – 1/2″. The caulk should be an elastomeric sealant, suitable for outdoor use. Deck-o-Seal and Vulkem are two popular brand names. Tape is removed before caulk sets. Replace or repair caulking annually if it cracks or pulls away from either side.

Prices for professional expansion joint caulking run $5.00 – $8.00 per linear foot. Add up the perimeter of the pool to figure your price. The variance depends on the width of the joint, which is usually 1/2″ – 1″ or regional differences. Price includes full prep, backer rod, caulking and finishing.

Expansion Joint Caulking around swimming pools is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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Also called a drain & clean, an acid wash becomes necessary if the pool has turned into the “black lagoon”. This may occur if the winterizing process is not done properly, or if the pool has been stagnant for a period of time so that algae has taken over. If you notice scaly, man-phibian creatures splashing around out back, it’s probably time to drain & clean.

Our general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is: if you can see the bottom of the pool (the floor) then you can bring it back with chemicals, labor and filtering. If the floor is not visible, the cost of the chemicals and labor will generally be greater than the acid wash charge, and take much, much longer. Also, extensive algae blooms will stain plastered pools, making an acid wash desirable.

An acid wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster, exposing fresh plaster beneath. Therefore, it is ill-advised to make it an annual custom, which will accelerate the need for re-plastering. Most plaster coats (sometimes called whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2″, so a few careful acid washes should not hurt.

You may also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, but just to bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits, chlorine stains, even dirt stains…an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement.

If your pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just bloom very easily….changing the water and acid washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer.

Acid is a dangerous substance. Pool company personnel are specially trained in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus during the acid wash. To protect our environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with soda ash prior to its being pumped to a safe location.

If you decide to drain and clean your own pool, make sure that the hydrostatic relief plugs are pulled as soon as possible, and that the water is pumped to a distant location, or into a storm drain. You may also need to check with local water authorities for waste water discharge regulations.

AS you drain the pool, wash it down (scrub if necessary) to remove all algae and leaves. Bag up all leaves and debris in the pool’s bottom. When the pool is clean and empty, you can begin to acid wash the plaster. Put on protective clothing and rubber boots, goggles and wear a breathing mask designed for acid fumes.

Add 1 gallon acid to 1 gallon water in a flower watering can (Always add acid to water, never the other way around). Wet down the wall with a hose. Keep the hose(s) running at all times, without a nozzle on it. Pour the acid/water mixture down the wall, from top to bottom, one 10 foot section at a time. Do not allow the acid to sit on the plaster for very long. Usually 30 seconds is long enough. Use an acid brush to scrub the surfaces and move the acid around. Rinse quickly and thoroughly.

Make sure acid is rinsed completely, as it will continue to etch the plaster. Also try to prevent the acid from wearing a channel path from shallow end to deep end. This can create a worn stripe on the floor.

If the 50/ 50 mixture isn’t strong enough, you can increase the acid strength or the hang time (before rinsing), or scrub harder. Usually pools are acid washed twice with the same strength mixture. Remember that you don’t want to damage or “burn” the plaster.

After the acid wash, the bottom of the pool will be filled with a foamy, acid puddle. This needs to be neutralized before pumping out. Use 2 lbs of soda ash per 1 gallon of acid used. Broadcast the ash over the puddle while stirring with a pool brush on a pole. Use a small submersible pump with a hose to pump out the remaining acid water. Be careful where you pump it to. Even if properly neutralized, it may destroy plants or kill fish, frogs, etc. Rinse the bowl again, and re-pour the bowl of the deep end to clean up well around the drain, being careful not to burn the plaster too much.

Don’t rush the job and be safe. The fumes can be very strong, and very dangerous. Be sure to wear a respirator that will block muriatic acid fumes, goggles or safety glasses and protective clothing. Wear old shoes, or rubber boots. Spray off before exiting the pool. Transporting the acid from the store to the house can be hazardous also. Secure the load in the vehicle. Always have a second person nearby when acid washing the pool. If acid drops enter the mouth or eye, rinse with the hose for 15 mins, without a nozzle on it. Acid on the skin won’t usually burn too much, just rinse quickly, for 30 seconds.

It is advised that you pay a service company to perform this for you.

If your pool is vinyl lined, acid is not used. Detergents, conditioners and good ‘ol elbow grease will remove the “slime”. The liner must then be “reset” with a vacuum to ensure proper fit during filling. Liner pools are normally not drained completely if it can be helped. There can be problems getting the liner to reset properly, and there is the rare danger of the walls collapsing.

Complete drain & clean charges average $600. Higher costs may be seen for large amounts of debris in the pool, excessive neglect, or larger sized pools. Lower costs will be realized for clean or empty pools, or localized acid washings. If your water is from a well, you may elect to refill the pool with trucked – in water. Expect to pay about $150 per 5,000 gallons. If you refill from the hose; water costs are a few dollars per thousand gallons. Contact your water authority to let them know you are filling the pool and they may not charge you for the sewer, only the water portion of the bill.

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All of the swimming pool heaters  from the small 100 (100,000 btu) unit to the largest 405’s (405,000 btu’s of gas usage per hour) will heat your pool. The smaller heaters are slower to heat, and will operate more often to keep up with the output of larger heaters. Larger heaters are a small bit more efficient than the smaller pool heater units. Use of a pool cover to retain heat and installing fences or other wind* obstructions can reduce demands on the pool heater.

If you are trying to heat a pool/spa combo, a 400 btu pool heater (the Big Boy) is usually used for fast (15 – 30 minutes) heat up of the spa.

Ask yourself a question about your anticipated usage patterns. If you will be heating intermittently, for example, turning on the heater on Friday, and turning it off on Monday, then a quick heat up is required. Heaters only add 1 – 3 degrees of heat per hour to the average pool. A larger heater is best for this usage pattern. If you expect to be maintaining a temperature by setting the thermostat, and maybe adding a few degrees in the evening or on weekends, then a smaller sizes of pool heaters can be used.

Use the chart below as a guideline in sizing a heater to your pool size. Factor in the usage patterns and other considerations above and then consider going one size larger for good measure.

*wind is the largest heat thief around your pool, with the possible exception of teenagers.

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Considering today’s high fuel costs, does it make sense for me to heat my pool?

The answer is yes, if you want to enjoy comfortable swimming at your own convenience. One of the reasons for owning a pool is being able to swim when you want to. As for cost, that’s up to you. You really can control fuel consumption and waste simply by taking advantage of the suggestions made on this page.

What guidelines should be followed in heating our pool?

Taking into consideration the need to conserve energy and to minimize fuel consumption, any unnecessary pool heating should be avoided. You are the best judge of the kind of use you want out of your pool. Use of your pool for recreation, exercise, therapy or just general enjoyment obviously will require heating it. Your pool won’t contribute to your health or pleasure unless it’s warm enough to swim in comfortably, and when you want to swim. Actually, using your home pool can be far less wasteful of energy and cost you less in fuel than driving to distant resort and vacation areas for away-from-home recreation.

For pointers on saving energy and cutting fuel costs, see the list of suggestions on conserving energy.

How warm should I keep my pool?

That depends entirely on you, of course. The temperature recommended for recreational and competitive sports swimming by the American Red Cross and many swimming coaches is 78° F. This comfort level coincides with good fuel conservation practice, too.

Young children, the elderly and others often need 80° F or warmer water, however, and hydrotherapy calls for warmer water, too.

Although 78° F to 82° F takes in about everyone, how warm you should keep your pool actually depends on personal preference.

Obviously, a heated pool means more swimming. How much more?

You’re right. The sun alone usually can’t keep your pool water at that comfort minimum of 78° F. By having a heater to warm your water you can add substantially to the daily use of your pool—and you can also extend the so-called “swimming season.”

How much more swimming? From early morning to late evening, even with air temperatures of 65° or lower — if your pool is warm.

You can stretch your pool season by twice in most areas and even longer in other areas by having a heated pool. The usual 2-month season in Detroit, for example, can be doubled in time, and in Los Angeles the season can be more than tripled. In New York, Chicago and Philadelphia – double the season or better.

If we don’t heat our pool, how much swimming season can we expect?

Again, it depends on your climate and whether you use a pool cover or not. Without a pool cover you’ll probably have a season of only one or two months in most areas and perhaps three months or a little more with a cover.

During those months when the average temperature in your area is high enough to heat your pool water to a minimum 75°F—and hold it there—you will be able to boost this temperature to 78^°F or more if you use a good pool cover and keep it on your pool when the pool is not in use.

Pools that are not covered can lose 4° F to 5° F overnight in most parts of the country. With a cover, you can reduce that heat loss by 50% or more. So without a heater you should be able to use your pool in the afternoons and early evenings, in the warmest part of the season.

Remember that besides air temperature, you must consider such variables as wind speed and humidity, both of which affect the rate of heat loss from the pool. If your pool is not covered, try to protect the pool from breezes as best you can with walls, covered fences, shrubs, cabanas, etc.

Do we need to heat our pool when the weather’s hot?

Again, it depends on you and your personal pool temperature preference. It also depends on the climate in your area— and whether you use a good quality cover to conserve energy and heat.

Even using a cover, you’ll probably have to heat your pool a little, particularly during summer cool spells and for morning and evening swimming.

In Cleveland, Pittsburgh and Seattle, for example, even the July – August average temperatures are usually below 75° F and moderate heating would be essential for comfortable swimming. By contrast, average temperatures in summer are high and sustained. But “real” weather has a tendency to vary a lot from the mean, so it’s a good idea to rely on a heater to brighten up the cool spots and lengthen the swimming season.

What are the health benefits of heating my pool?

A pool that is properly heated and properly used can contribute to and help safeguard health. Doctors and physical therapists regard swimming as one of the most beneficial of cardiovascular exercises. It is an exercise that nearly everyone can do safely, while running and jogging are impossible for many elderly people and those who suffer from arthritis and muscular diseases.

By heating your pool, you make it possible to engage more often in swimming exercise because you extend the hours and the season your pool may be used.

A heated pool prevents chilling and the problems caused by the loss of too much body heat. Pediatricians say very young children are especially susceptible to various respiratory infections which may result from repeated chilling, and this is also true of elderly swimmers.

A heated pool is a must for therapeutic benefits and when swimming for relaxation. Doctors and Red Cross swimming experts recommend pool temperatures of from 78° F for recreation and competitive sports swimming, to 90° F or more for certain physical therapy patients.

What are the costs involved in heating a pool?

First, there is the initial or one-time cost of the heater you select and its hook-up or installation charge. Second, there is the monthly fuel cost, which varies with the type of heating system you buy, the use of your pool, the pool water temperature you prefer and other variables. Third, there is the matter of annual or semi-annual maintenance and service.

Operating costs can be kept to a minimum by installing an efficient, properly sized heater; using a good quality pool cover; and, of course, keeping your filter clean and your heating and filtering system well maintained.

We hear a lot of praise for the pool cover. Is it merited?

Most certainly. A good insulating pool cover can reduce heat loss by 50% or more, depending on your location and climate.

A pool that is uncovered can lose up to 5° F overnight; a good cover can cut that loss by half.

Used at night or whenever your pool is not in use, the pool cover can help save fuel costs by cutting heat loss regardless of the type of heating you utilize. And it can even make an unheated pool more “swimmable” by helping to retain the sun’s energy that naturally heats the pool during the daytime.

A pool cover stops water evaporation when it is in place. It isn’t the water loss that’s the big consideration here, it’s the heat loss. Every gallon of water that evaporates from a pool takes with it 6000 BTU’s of heat in the process, and a typical uncovered pool loses 1 to 1½ inches of water a week through evaporation. For a 20 by 40 foot pool, an inch of water amounts to 500 gallons—roughly, a heat loss of more than 30 therms every seven days. (A therm is equal to 100,000 BTU’s).

Besides stopping heat loss, a cover saves on pool chemicals, too, by keeping them from evaporating with the water.

What do I do about heating a spa that’s part of my pool?

One Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heater can serve both your pool and spa. Our Model ESC heater is equipped with a switch that allows you to select either a spa or pool setting, so that with proper plumbing and valving you can heat the spa portion of your pool installation to the temperature you want.

What are the advantages of a separate spa?

Originally these spas were purchased primarily by people with specific physical disabilities requiring hydrotherapy. Today, however, the spa is recognized as a place where anyone can relax and enjoy relief from the stresses of daily activities as well as from aches and pains requiring hydrotherapy. The spa, built as part of the main pool, is walled off with its own water circulation system. Both can use the same filter and heater system with simple controls to switch from one to the other. A spa typically operates at about 100° F and provides a therapeutic whirlpool effect by means of high velocity water jets or bubbles.

It is important to know that use of a spa at high temperatures can be hazardous, particularly in conjunction with alcohol or drugs, or when a person is very young, very old, pregnant, or in poor health. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission can provide guidelines for spa use. Consult your physician as to a safe temperature for you and your family.

What types of heating are available to us?

Several—from the sun itself to gas-fired, oil-fired, electric and elaborate solar heating systems.

The most widely used type is the direct fired natural gas heater because of its low cost, reliability, ease of operation and the wide availability of natural gas. In areas where natural gas is not available, heater models can be furnished equipped to use LP gas or propane gas.

Oil-fired pool heaters are a good choice in areas where natural gas is unavailable but home heating oil is. Electric heaters are generally much less efficient and more costly to operate than natural gas heaters, unless the electricity is hydroelectrically generated.

Solar heating ranges from simple “passive” solar—the familiar pool cover that absorbs and transmits some of the sun’s energy to pool water—to “active” solar heating systems.

Used alone, the passive heating technique merely serves to help keep pool temperatures at existing levels by retaining natural solar heat and preventing its loss. It cannot add heat to build up water temperature beyond what the sun supplies. Active solar uses traditional pool motors to move water from the pool through a system of solar collector panels for heating by the sun. This increases the amount of solar heat added to the pool.

Why not go strictly solar? After all, it’s free.

Not exactly—in fact, not by long shot. An adequate solar pool heating system will cost substantially more initially than fuel-fired heaters. It can add 25% to 50% to the cost of building a pool.

Solar systems have definite limitations. To begin with, they require sufficient area in which to install large collector panels, usually on a roof or deck overhang near the pool. Even in an area like southern California, the total solar collector area needs to be at least equal to 75% (100 % is better) of the pool surface area. This means that if you have a 20 x 40 pool you should have a 20 x 40 collector area available for best results.

Your pump would have to work almost continuously during most sunlight hours. This means your pump would be running during “peak load” periods when the utilities’ generating plants are often taxed to capacity—and when they charge more per kilowatt than during “off peak” periods.

Solar heating systems heat slowly—and not at all in cloudy, cool periods. Depending on the collector size and your location and climate, a solar system may not be able to warm the water to your desired temperature, even in the swimming season, except in the afternoon. And there is just not enough solar energy to heat your pool for swimming in the winter, early spring or late fall—no matter how many hours you pump.

What is the initial cost of a gas-fired heater?

Size for size, natural and propane gas-fired heaters cost the same. Prices depend on heater size, which in turn depends on the size of your pool—the gallonage of water to be heated. A good rule of thumb is 6% – 10% of the total pool cost, if yours is an in-ground pool. And for this small added cost you get considerably more use from your pool. If you have also decided on a spa, the piping to the pool is negligible in cost.

If you think of buying a pool in the same way you think of buying a new car, consider a heater the same way as adding a radio or air conditioning to an automobile. It’s an extra convenience you don’t use all the time, but it adds immeasurably to your enjoyment. With a pool heater you can swim anytime you choose.

What is the initial cost of an oil-fired heater?

It runs somewhat more than the cost of a natural or propane gas-fired heater. An oil-fired heater is ideal in areas where home heating oils are commonly used and natural gas is not available.

What about installation charges?

With natural gas-fired heaters, they consist of gas and water connections; for models with electronic control, an electrical connection to the filter pump circuit. Using propane gas requires a storage tank. With oil-fired heaters, you will require the services of a trained oil appliance technician and a storage tank. If your home already is heated by either oil or propane, the installation probably can be tied into your regular fuel supply.

In some areas, gas companies will make the gas installation with only a nominal charge. Check with your local gas utility and your Teledyne Laars/ Jandy dealer.

Must we go to the expense of building a shelter for our heater?

Not necessarily – it all depends on whether you want your heater installed indoors or outside. All Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters are design-certified for outdoor installation without a protective shelter. The Series 2 gas-fired models can be used outdoors in the attractive “stack-less” configuration in which they are shipped. They can also be installed indoors through use of the accessory draft-hood, which directs combustion products to a chimney or vent. The oil-fired models may be installed indoors with proper venting or outdoors with chimney cap supplied.

How about operating costs for fuel-fired heaters?

This is largely up to you. Like house heating, pool heating can be regulated to your budget. Swimming habits can be adjusted to your means. And you probably will want to use a pool cover to conserve as much energy as possible and still enjoy the benefits of owning your own pool.

Many common sense economies can be practiced—see our “Tips” section.

All things considered, which method of pool heating is the least expensive?

Studies of 10 – year “life cycle” costs have consistently shown that a good pool cover and a fuel-fired heater combination is less expensive, overall, than an active solar system alone, or active solar system and fuel-fired heater combination. This is true, even state tax credits are allowed for installing the active solar heater. Unless you live in an area where your electricity is generated by water power (hydroelectric), it is also true that the life cycle cost of a pool cover/fuel-fired heater combination is much less than that of an electric heater or combination.

What size pool heater will we need?

Heaters are sized mainly on the basis of the pool surface area and the difference between the pool and air temperatures. The average air temperature for the coldest month of pool use is used in the calculation.

The heating load could also be affected by such things as excessive wind exposure or much cooler night temperatures than daytime air temperatures; in those cases a heater with more capacity may be desirable.

Another factor which may determine the size of the heater you will need is the way you intend to use your pool. There are two common pool heating practices — “constant” temperature maintenance and “intermittent” heating. These are determined by how you want your pool heated—continually or on an intermittent basis.

To heat a pool quickly after periods of intermittent shutdown, a larger gas-fired heater is needed. And in colder climates a larger than standard size heater also is recommended for “constant” heating. Maintaining pool temperature requires the same amount of fuel regardless of the heater size. For intermittent heating however, a larger heater actually saves fuel because it brings the pool to temperature more quickly.

If you have questions about heater sizing, consult your Teledyne Laars/ Jandy dealer.

What are the differences between constant and intermittent heating?

Just what the terms imply. With constant heating your pool temperature is kept at a comfort level, and your pool is ready for use at all times. You set your thermostat at the temperature you want and forget it. This is very convenient but more costly as more fuel is used to maintain temperature in the pool at all times.

With intermittent heating, you heat your pool only for those periods when you expect to be using it. For example, if you swim only on weekends, you would heat up the water for weekend use only and shut off your heater during the week.

With either heating method, the use of a good pool cover can conserve heat and reduce fuel costs considerably.

Any pointers on intermittent heating?

While intermittent heating generally effects greater fuel economy, just as you would achieve by cutting off your furnace while away from home for several days, even less heating is required with this method if you keep a cover on your pool when it is not being used. A covered pool stays warmer than an uncovered one. Shutting down your heater for less than 2 or 3 days can be a false economy if you are not using a cover because building pool temperature up again tends to offset the “shutdown” savings. The less temperature buildup you require, the less energy will be needed.

Remember, too, that intermittent heating requires a heater large enough to heat your pool quickly when needed.

How can we conserve energy and still fully enjoy our pool?

First, keep your thermostat at the lowest comfortable setting—and mark this setting on your thermostat dial. Second, if you swim only on weekends and are not using a cover, keep your heater on a standby setting of 70 degrees. With a cover on the pool when you’re not using it, you can leave the thermostat at your normal setting. Third, if you’re vacationing for a couple of weeks or more, or shutting down for the winter, turn the heater off completely, including any pilot light. Fourth, use all available means to prevent heat loss. Shelter your pool from prevailing winds using hedges, other landscaping, cabafias or decorative fencing as windbreaks even though the pool is covered. Finally, use a pool cover whenever you are not using the pool.

Is a pool heater safe?

As safe as any major heating appliance in your home. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters, for example, are equipped with automatic safety pilots or ignition safeguards, pressure regulators, water pressure relief valves and other safety features. Shut-off controls are automatic. Electric shock hazard is avoided by construction and installation of the heater in accordance with strict electrical standards and codes.

Teledyne Laars/ Jandy offers two types of gas-fired heaters. One has a standing pilot and a built-in millivolt electrical system. The other has 24 volt solid-state electronic pilot ignition supplied by household current. Both are as safe as your other gas appliances when properly installed.

Teledyne Laars/ Jandy’ gas-fired models are design-certified by the American Gas Association. Our oil-fired heater, which is internally grounded according to the National Electric Code, is UL listed. Every Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heater is fired up and fully performance-tested at the factory prior to sale.

How automatic is a pool heater?

All you do is set it. For heating only at specific periods, a time clock or electronic timers may be used for automatic shutdown and turn-on

Are all gas-fired heaters built alike?

Definitely not. Some are built like an ordinary tank-type hot water heater, or with heating coils inside the water tank. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy gas-fired heaters were the first ever built specifically for pools. Our heaters utilize the direct-fire method for greater efficiency. Patented stainless steel burners heat finned copper tubes from which the pool water absorbs heat as it flows through them. This simplified direct-fire principle, first introduced by Teledyne Laars/ Jandy 40 years ago, makes our heaters the most imitated on the market.

Aren’t all oil-fired heaters basically the same?

No. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy oil-fired heaters are trim and compact, about half the size of many other oil-fired heaters. But the most important difference is that we have adapted our proven heat exchanger to use stainless steel finned tubes to resist sulphur corrosion. The result is efficient heat transfer with only minimal annual cleaning. And these oil-fired models use our time-tested controls throughout—all proven components for safe, automatic operation.

What features should we look for in a pool heater?

You should be concerned with economy of operation, reliability and durability. Conservation of energy and fuel economy are extremely important—and an efficient pool heater can achieve, both.

By eliminating wasteful heating, a heater can quickly pay for itself. For example, all Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters are equipped with a sensitive thermostatic pool temperature control. It maintains the pool at the exact temperature desired without wasteful, long on-and-off cycles of heating and cooling.

Rust, corrosion and scale are the elements that deteriorate pool heaters fast. That’s why we make our sturdy 1-piece heater jackets rigid and strong, with single-seam welding and a new longer lasting, weather resistant coating that resists corrosion and ends flaking of finish. Our heat exchanger produces a scouring-action water flow that virtually inhibits scaling.

We have a salt-water pool. Any special problems?

Yes. Salt water is highly corrosive, and a heater must be equipped with a special heat exchanger and other features to handle it. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters designed for salt water use are available on special order.

Will we have to buy any extras?

Not with Teledyne Laars/ Jandy. Everything you need for convenient, efficient operation is part of the heater package. In our gas-fired models with pilot light, included are such features as the Visoflame pilot lighting device that puts the pilot where it can be seen for fast checkout and easy lighting. Series 2 model ESC heaters have an electronic temperature controller which provides two separate temperature settings for the pool and spa modes of operation. This model also has electronic intermittent ignition for even lower operating costs.

Will my pool heater require much maintenance?

Not if it’s a Teledyne Laars/ Jandy. Usually, one maintenance inspection a year is sufficient to keep your heater working efficiently. Maintenance is largely a preventive measure used to safeguard your heater’s working condition. The ruggedness, corrosion-free construction and long-lasting finish of our heaters combine with simplicity of engineering to keep maintenance minimal.

How do I get service on my heater?

This should always be done by a trained technician. For years Teledyne Laars/ Jandy has been conducting service training schools in all parts of the country for pool service companies and our dealers to assure the availability of highly skilled technicians wherever you live. On Long Island, Paramount Pools has been an authorized Teledyne Laars/ Jandy installer and service center for over 18 years.

What about parts?

When you need them, we offer genuine factory parts through Teledyne Laars/ Jandy dealers. They are warehoused strategically across the nation to assure prompt replacement and repair regardless of where you live.

What about warranties?

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and the Federal Trade Commission require that product warranties be clearly and simply stated—and that such warranties be available to consumers prior to purchase. Be sure you ask for and read all warranties.

Our warranties are available from the dealer or by writing the factory. A warranty accompanies each heater, along with installation and operating instructions and service manual.

Equally important is the reputation of the manufacturer. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy has been standing behind its products for more than 40 years.

Why is the reputation of the manufacturer so important?

For two reasons: The quality of your heater and the protection of your investment in it. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy is the oldest and world’s largest gas pool heater manufacturer, with more heaters sold than all other brands combined. This is the result of engineering leadership that includes pioneering the first pool heater… the first stack-less model… the first line of heater to be fully approved for outdoor use… the first high-velocity flow-through tubes for heat exchangers… and the first truly compact oil-fired heater.

This leadership is sustained by a large national organization of distributors, dealers and technicians. Paramount Pools has been a dealer for over 18 years.

How long should a heater last?

Some heaters wear out in three or four years, but Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters normally last a lot longer. A product life of 10 to 12 years is not uncommon. Heater failure is usually the result of some outside cause—not normal usage—provided it has been properly maintained.

Could we add a heater later, after our pool is built?

Yes. Although a Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heater can be added at any time, it should be included from the beginning, just as a heating system is installed during the construction of a home. This means greater convenience for you and less installation cost. When you include a heater in the beginning, it costs only 6% – 10% of your pool investment and usually gives you 100% more enjoyment from your pool. If the heater is not installed when the pool is built, provision should be made for a heater stub-out in the return water line, and space or a concrete pad should be provided for future installation.

All things considered, what is the most important reason for choosing a heated swimming pool?

For the sheer enjoyment of swimming in real comfort— any time you want. Any time of the day, any day of the year. Owners of heated pools would answer this question in far more glowing terms, but what having a heated pool amounts to is the satisfaction of getting more—much more—from your pool investment in terms of year-round family fun.

Tips to help you conserve energy and heat your pool economically.

1. Keep a thermometer in your pool. It will pinpoint accurately the temperature most comfortable for you.
2. Keep your thermostat at the lowest comfortable setting. Each degree more heat than needed could add more to your monthly fuel cost and use up more energy than necessary.
3. Mark the “comfort setting” on the thermostat dial. This will prevent accidental or careless over-heating and waste of energy.
4. Lower thermostat to 70 degrees when pool is to be unused for three or four days. For longer periods, shut the heater off. You will save money on fuel consumption and help conserve energy.
5. Protect your pool from wind. Wind above 3 to 5 miles per hour can lower the pool temperature substantially. A hedge, cabana or decorative fence can be an effective windbreak.
6. Use a pool cover when pool is not in use. This can reduce heat loss by as much as 50%. If you are vacationing for a couple of weeks or shutting down for winter, turn the heater off completely, including any pilot light.
7. Drain heater completely prior to freezing weather. Freezing water inside the heat exchanger can result in costly repairs.
8. Get a maintenance checkup annually. It’s your best ounce of prevention. Call your Teledyne Laars/ Jandy dealer for a skilled technician to do the job. The cost is minimal and the service will keep your heater working efficiently for many years. Paramount Pools offers this service on Long Island, New York.

Facts about pool heating from Teledyne Laars is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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1. Swimming pool Solar Heating & Blankets
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3. Swimming Pool Heater Sizing

Solar heating is a very desirable way to heat your pool and spa for one simple reason; It’s free heat. After the initial investment, the heat that raises the water temperature in your pool or spa is free. The sun provides the energy to generate the heat through the solar panels or solar blanket. Solar blankets also prevent massive heat loss. When a pool or spa is covered with a solar blanket, the heating cost can drop by 70%.

Use and Care of Your Solar Blanket

Solar blankets serve a very useful role. Retaining heat is the most important one. A solar blanket will also help raise the water temperature a certain amount, but if you are expecting a solar blanket to heat your pool to 90 degrees in March or September, you will be disappointed. You can, however, expect a modest temperature increase with your solar blanket. The following are tips and ideas that will prolong the life of your solar blanket and make the most of your solar blanket experience.

1. Getting Your Solar Blanket

   When you measure your pool for your new solar cover, measure from the longest and widest points of the pool. Include steps and loveseats. When you get your solar blanket, it will be a large triangle. Lay it over the pool, bubble side down and leave it for a day or two before trimming it. This will allow the blanket to “open” a bit before trimming, giving a better fit.

2. Trimming Your Solar Blanket

   After your solar blanket has sat out of the box, and over the pool for a day or two, it is time to trim it. Use a sharp pair if scissors or a razor knife. The idea is to have the blanket fit edge to edge, end to end. Cut the solar blanket all the way around the pool; be sure to cut the corners to the proper radius.

3. Storing Your Solar Blanket

   The best way to store your solar blanket is with a roller, or a solar blanket reel. The solar blanket is attached to the roller with straps, and is rolled up when the blanket is not in use. Most rollers have wheels that can be used to store the cover and reel when it’s party time or when you just don’t want it around. However, you do not need a solar blanket reel. Most solar covers come with a large white bag for storage. You can just pull the solar blanket off of the pool, fold it and put it in the shed or garage. When storing your solar cover for the winter, use a swimming pool cover cleaner and deodorizer. Do not leave the solar cover out in the weather during the winter unless it is on the pool, in use.

1. Cleaning Your Solar Blanket

The best way to clean your solar blanket is to use a solar cover cleaner and disinfectant.

Wet the solar blanket and use your telescoping pole and your pool brush. Squirt the solar blanket cleaner on the cover and scrub. You can do this with the cover right on the pool if you want to. When you are done, get a hose and hose the dirty water into the skimmer opening. It may be easier to remove the solar cover from the pool and spread it out on the lawn. If you have a slope you can spread it on, this will make rinsing easier. For a quick cleaning, you can just hose off the solar cover while it is on the pool. Hose the debris right into the skimmer opening or into the corner and use your leaf net to remove the debris.

1. Getting the Most Out Of Your Solar Blanket

You can increase the life of your solar blanket by following a few simple rules. Never leave your solar blanket outside when the pool is winterized. Make sure you keep a chemically balanced swimming pool. Remove the solar cover when you shock the pool, and leave it off for 2-3 hours after any chemical treatment. Use a cover cleaner and deodorizer on a regular basis.

1. When Is It Time to Replace My Solar Blanket?

Your solar cover will not last forever. The plastic will begin to deteriorate after time. When the solar blanket begins to flake and get brittle, throw it away. The first sign of the end of your solar blanket is when the bubbles on the underside begin to fall off. Then you can use it to cover the firewood pile.

Solar Pool Heating Systems

Why Solar Heating?

As mentioned before, the best thing about solar heating is that it is free heat. After the initial investment, there will be not additional cost for your heat. You can’t beat it. You will not get the response you will get from a gas heater, but solar pool heaters will raise the water temperature comfortable for swimming and more. The response you get from your pool solar heating system will depend on your geographical area, the weather, the location of the panels, whether the pool is covered and the system you choose. According to the United States Dept. of Energy, solar pool heating is the most cost effective use of solar energy. Also, there are no expensive parts to replace, no pilots to light, no electronic components. And best of all, no expensive fuel to burn away

How does Solar Pool Heating Work?

Solar pool heating systems usually have four basic components. The pump, the filter, solar collectors and a control valve. The pump takes the filtered water from the swimming pool or spa and sends it through the filter. The water goes from the filter to a flow control valve. The valve regulates how much water goes to the collector panels. If there is too much water flow going through the solar panels, the water will not heat as fast as it could. If the water travels slowly through the solar panels it will get really hot, then the hot water is mixed with pool or spa water, raising the water temperature. There are reports of “runaway” solar systems that have heated a pool over 100 degrees, so depending on the weather, your geographical location and the position of the swimming pool solar panels, you can get and keep your pool at your desired temperature. Solar heaters can also be used in conjunction with a conventional swimming pool heater, lowering heating costs by 60%-70%. The use of a solar blanket will double the efficiency of your solar pool heating system. Solar heating systems can also be used to COOL the pool or spa in certain geographical areas. If the pool is too warm, the solar system can be set to run during the night hours, and off during the daylight hours. This will lower the water temperature.

Care and Maintenance of Your Solar Pool Heating System

Solar heating systems require very little maintenance. It is important to keep your water chemistry balanced and your filter in good operating condition. Since the water that goes into the solar collector comes straight from the filter, if there is anything that bypasses the filter, it can potentially clog the solar collector. Water chemistry is just as important. Improper pH and calcium hardness can cause mineral build up in the solar collectors, and can also cause the plastic to become brittle. It is a good idea to use scale inhibitor on a regular basis to prevent build up in the solar collector.

Winterizing Your Solar Heating System

Most solar heating systems have drain plugs to remove the water. It is also a good idea to blow air through the collector to remove any trapped water. This is also the best opportunity to inspect the collector panel for damage and inspect the mounting. Make sure the solar panels are secure and ready for the winter. If you have any questions, please contact our technical support professionals for assistance.

Liquid Solar Blanket

Tropical Fish Liquid Solar Blanket

A chemical with high molecular adhesion, Liquid Solar Blanket forms an invisible layer on top of the pool water surface. When the water is calm, the molecules form a barrier to heat loss. Although it doesn’t heat the pool, it does retain the heat from the day, or heat put into the water from a gas or solar pool heater. For more information, please go to our Liquid Solar Blanket page.

Swimming pool Solar Heating & Blankets is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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