Water Testing FAQ

What chemical levels do I need to test for regularly?

The four main tests to perform with a test kit are pH, chlorine (or other sanitizer residual), Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness. Cyanuric Acid levels, mineral content, Total Dissolved Solids and Acid or Base Demand tests may also be performed as needed.

How often do I need to test the water?

I should say everyday, but I realize that’s a bit much for most people. Commercial pools are required to check chlorine levels every hour and record their findings in a log, however the “backyard lifeguards” should check their pH and chlorine levels at least 2-3 times a week. Chlorine should be fed continuously through a feeder device to maintain a consistent level. Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness levels tend to fluctuate less, so weekly testing should be O.K.

What are the recommended levels?

• pH: 7.2 – 7.8
• Chlorine: 1.0 – 2.0 ppm
• Total Alkalinity: 80 – 120 ppm
• Calcium Hardness: 180 – 220 ppm, though some say 200 – 400.
• Cyanuric Acid: 25 – 50 ppm
• Total Dissolved Solids: 500 – 5000 ppm

How long do my reagents last?

Typically one season. Reagents lose their strength over time and can also be ruined by direct sunlight and temperature extremes. Replace your reagents annually.

Can I use reagents from other test kits with my test kit?

No; drop size, concentration and color variation will provide inaccurate results.

Can I use a chlorine test kit for bromine?

If you have a DPD test kit, you need simply multiply the test result by 2.25 to obtain the bromine equivalency. This works because bromine is over twice as dense as chlorine.

My test kit shows no Chlorine, even though I know it’s there…

If chlorine levels are excessively high, the content can bleach out DPD, a reagent commonly used for chlorine testing. Either dilute the sample with chlorine free water, or double the # of drops of DPD, and multiply or divide accordingly.

There has been evidence that excessively high levels of stabilizer, or cyanuric acid, can cause a phenomenon called chlorine lock. Levels above 100ppm of cyanuric acid (CYA) may prevent chlorine from registering and possibly sanitizing. Lower CYA levels by dilution.

If you smell chlorine in the water, you are very possibly aware of combined chlorine, known as chloramines. These will not register in a test for free chlorine. A good DPD test kit will allow you to test for total chlorine levels and free chlorine levels; the difference being the combined levels. If trace amounts of combined chlorine is above .3 ppm, you may need to shock the pool to break the bond of chloramines; this shock level is around 30 ppm.

When I test for pH, I get a purple color…

If your reagents are in good condition, a purple color in a pH test is an indication of chlorine levels being too high and interfering with the test. Add a drop of thiosulfate reagent to remove the chlorine from a new sample, and test again.

What type of test kit do I need?

There are many different types of test kits commercially available. If you are concerned about water balance, (and you should be) you will want to spend more for a nice kit. The basic “duo” test kits, available for about five bucks, are usually OTO chlorine and pH testers only. You may wish to spend more for a DPD chlorine kit, which measures free, combined and total chlorine levels (OTO measures only free levels). Also important is the ability to test total alkalinity and calcium hardness. Acid demand and base demand tests will allow you to perform a titration test on your pH sample. Simply count the # of drops to determine, with the help of a chart, exactly how much acid or base is needed to adjust the pH. A “four-way” test kit will test pH, chlorine, alkalinity and acid demand. Test strips are available now with “Litmus test” technology. These are “dip & read” strips of paper that turn colors indicating levels of pH, alkalinity and chlorine in the pool. Fairly simple to use, however, it seems that they may not be quite as accurate. Your pool professional can check the water for metal presence, cyanuric acid levels and TDS (total dissolved solids). If you have a biguanide water treatment system or a chlorine generator, you’ll obtain special test kits from these dealers.

Testing FAQ, pool water chemistry testing and procedures,water balance is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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Water Balancing

Water balancing is not such a complicated exercise. It is simply the relationship between different chemical parameters. Your water is constantly changing, year round. Everything from weather to oils, to dirt, and cosmetics affect you water balance. You will probably not change the water in your pool for many years. Continuous filtration and disinfection removes contaminants which keep the water enjoyable but this is does not balance your water.  A pool that is “balanced” has proper levels of pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness.  It may also be defined as water that is neither corrosive or scaling.  This concept is derived from the fact that water will dissolve and hold minerals until it becomes saturated and cannot hold any more water in solution.

When water is considerably less than saturated it is said to be in a corrosive or aggressive condition.  When water is over saturated and can no longer hold the minerals in solution it is in a scaling condition.  So then, balanced water is that which is neither over or under-saturated.  The cliché that “water seeks its own level” certainly applies here. Water which is under-saturated will attempt to saturate itself by dissolving everything in contact with it in order to build up its content.  Water which is over-saturated will attempt to throw off some of its content by precipitating minerals out of solution in the form of scale.  How do we know when our water is over or under saturated?  We use a good test kit (with  fresh testing reagents) to measure the chemical parameters of pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness.

pH
pH is a measure of how acidic or basic the water is.  pH is a logarithmic scale from 0-14, with 7 being neutral.  Below 7 and a substance is defined as being acidic, while levels above 7 are said to be basic or alkaline.  Everything that enters your pool has a pH value.  Ever heard of acid rain?  This is rainfall with a very low pH.  The human eye at a pH value of 7.35, is just slightly basic.  This is, coincidentally, in range with proper pH levels for your pool.  To have pH in balance we adjust the water with additions of pH increasers (bases) or pH de-creasers (acids) to achieve the range of 7.2 – 7.8.  If your testing (recommended daily) of the water shows a pH value below 7.2 the water is in a corrosive (acidic) condition and you will need to add a base to bring the pH into a more basic range to prevent corrosion.  Conversely, if the pH is above 7.8, we are in a scaling (basic) condition and must add an acid to bring down the pH to prevent the formation of scale.

Total Alkalinity
A close cousin of pH, the level of alkalinity in the water is a measurement of all carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxides, and other alkaline substances found in the pool water.  pH is alkaline dependent; that is, alkalinity is defined as the ability of the water to resist changes in pH.  Also known as the buffering capacity of the water, alkalinity keeps the pH from “bouncing” all over the place.  Low alkalinity is raised by the addition of a base (similar to pH); sodium bicarbonate is commonly used.  High levels of alkalinity are lowered by the addition of an acid (similar to pH).  Experts recommend “pooling” the acid in a small area of low current for a greater effect on alkalinity.  That is, adding an acid will lower both pH and alkalinity.  Walking the acid around the pool in a highly distributed manner is said to have a greater effect lowering the pH than the alkalinity. Pooling the acid has the opposite effect.  A very important component of water balance, alkalinity should be maintained in the 80-120ppm range for “gunite” and concrete pools and 125-170ppm for painted, vinyl, and fiberglass pools.  Levels should be tested weekly.

Calcium Hardness
When we speak of scale, we are talking about calcium carbonate which has come out of solution and deposited itself on surfaces.  It is a combination of carbonate ions, a part of total alkalinity and calcium, and a part of the Calcium Hardness level.  The test for Calcium Hardness is a measure of how “hard” or “soft” the water is testing.  “Hard” water can have high levels of calcium and magnesium.  If these levels are too high the water becomes saturated and will throw off excess particles out of solution which then seeks to deposit themselves on almost any surface inside the pool.  This is calcium carbonate scale; a “white-ish,” crystallized rough spot. If the levels are too low, the water is under-saturated.  If under-saturated, the water will become aggressive as it attempts to obtain the calcium it needs.  Such “soft-water” will actually corrode surfaces inside the pool which contain calcium and other minerals to maintain its hardness demand.  If your Calcium Hardness levels are too high you can use TSP to lower the levels or a product called Hydroquest 100.  It can also be accomplished by dilution (adding water to the pool which has a lower calcium hardness content).  Levels which are too low require the addition of calcium chloride.  Recommended range for calcium hardness is 200-400ppm.  Calcium Hardness levels should be tested weekly.

The Saturation Index
Also called the Langelier Index, this chemical equation or formula is used to diagnose the water balance in the pool.  The formula is “SI = pH + TF + CF + AF – 12.1.”  To calculate the Saturation Index, test the water for pH, temperature, calcium hardness, and total alkalinity.  Refer to a chart for assigned values for your temperature, hardness, and alkalinity readings then add these to your pH value.  Subtract 12.1, which is the constant value assigned to Total Dissolved Solids and a resultant number will be produced.  A result between -0.3 and +0.5 is said to indicate balanced water.  Results outside of these parameters require adjustment to one or more chemical components to achieve balance. This formula is not guaranteed; however, some readings for pH, calcium, and alkalinity which, if taken individually would be considered to be well beyond recommendations, can combine within the formula to produce “balanced water.”  The SI can be used to pinpoint potential water balance problems.

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Sodium Tetraborate

A chemical called sodium tetraborate sold under the name Proteam Supreme, this chemical is a EPA registered algaestat that also reduces eye and skin irritation. Proteam also claims to give water a softer feel and prevent pink algae, which is actually a bacteria. ProTeam is a helpful ingredient in a chlorine-free program, utilizing Nature2 Technology.

What the chemical does is prevent organics like algae from processing carbon dioxide. It is added in 2 half doses of 2 lb per 1,000 gallons. Periodic additions of the product are made for backwashed and splashed-out water. A test kit is available for testing levels of potassium tetraborate in the water.

Proteam claims a chemical reduction of up to 50% is obtainable when using the product, and the water’s clarity is improved by increasing the water’s capacity to hold calcium in solution. This product is a recommended by the Claritec people, and the Pool Janitor.

How potassium tetraborate, as used in proteam supreme, works to block algae usage of carbon dioxide is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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Sea-Klear 4~in~1 water treatment; use weekly to prevent:

Dosage: Use just four (4) ounces per week in a 20,000 gallon pool.

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Biguanide Treatment

Originally developed as a pre-surgery anti-microbial scrub, PHMB was patented in 1977, and marketed for pools and spas under the trade name Baquacil. This technology has the distinction and the EPA approval as the only non-halogen sanitizer available for pools and spas. Here’s a page if you’re looking here to find out how to convert back to chlorine or some other sanitizer.

Now that the patent has expired, Bio Lab has also introduced a line of biguanide products under the name Soft Swim. A full system for complete halogen free water care, these products are a stand alone alternative to traditional sanitation methods. The Biguanide itself is combined with algaecides and hydrogen peroxide for periodic oxidation. The system tends to gum up filters, and of course a product is available to de-gum it. Biguanide are not recommended for spas or aerated pools. As long as you don’t add any other chemicals but those recommended by the manufacturer, you’ll do fine; but add a small amount of chlorine and your pool looks like orange sherbet! Biguanides are also incompatible with TSP, ozone, detergents, ionizers, and other common chemicals, but is not at odds with any water balancing chemicals you may add.

Biguanides have been reported to be easier to use, with less chemical level testing, and less adding of chemicals. The water doesn’t smell of chlorine of course, and the reduced surface tension gives it a smoother feel. It doesn’t degrade with sunlight, temperature, or changes in pH levels like chlorine. At recommended concentrations, biguanides won’t irritate the skin or eyes and can’t corrode pool equipment.

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Phos-Free

Phosphates are pollutants…..

Phosphate became a household word in the 1970’s. This is when people started to use low-phosphate and phosphate-free laundry detergents. This was to protect lakes, streams, wetlands and other runoff areas from the detrimental effects of excess phosphate. One of these effects is unwanted algae blooms.

Phosphates Accumulate in Pools…..

What’s true for lakes is also true for swimming pools. Phosphate is a natural component of most swimmer wastes. It is also present in rain water. Phosphate is persistent and does not break down naturally. Fertilizers, which may blow into the pool, have high phosphate content. For all of these reasons, pools can quickly build up high phosphate levels.

When Phosphates are Present, Algae Grows…..

Phosphate is the main ingredient in fertilizer. Phosphate is plant food, and algae are plants. When excess phosphate is present in a swimming pool, the symptoms often include the following:

Remove the Phosphates and Solve the Problem……

The maximum level of phosphate in pool water should be 0.1 ppm. Once the phosphate climbs above this level, the water quality begins to decrease and slime deposits can begin. Fortunately, draining to eliminate the accumulated phosphate is no longer necessary. Natural Chemistry’s Phos-Free is a natural mineral compound which effectively and rapidly reduces the level of phosphate in the water. Phos-Free is a natural mineral product which is non-toxic. It is safe to store and use around children.

After great success with Phos-Free phosphate remover, Natural Chemistry has added Phos-Free to to their Pool Perfect Concentrate. However, it can still be added by itself, sold in 2 Liter units. Treats 120,000 gallons.

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Ozone Water Treatment

Ozone has been around since the beginning of time. Also called tri-atomic oxygen, ozone is a molecule consisting of three atoms of oxygen, formed when oxygen molecules are broken apart and rejoined again. The ozone layer in the stratosphere that seems to have an ever widening hole over Antarctica is a 6 mile thick layer of tri-atomic oxygen.

The ozone molecule is a very powerful oxidizer and sanitizer. It destroys anything it comes in contact with, faster and more effectively than anything else available. And when the sanitation is complete, or if ozone finds nothing to oxidize, it returns to molecular oxygen (2 oxygen atoms).

Ozone is produced in the stratosphere by two methods. UV radiation from the sun will break apart molecular oxygen into individual nascent oxygen atoms. These atoms quickly attach themselves to the first molecule they encounter. When they join with an oxygen molecule, tri-atomic oxygen (ozone) is born. Another way in which ozone is created is through lightning, corona discharge, occurring in the stratosphere. The electricity breaks apart the molecules and rejoins them in the same manner as UV radiation.

Ozone is produced for swimming pool water in these two methods. In the UV method, air is passed over a UV bulb, and the radiation creates nascent oxygen and then ozone. The molecules are then introduced into the water where they can do their stuff. In the corona discharge method, a small lightning storm is created in an air filled chamber.

Ozone is indeed a powerful sanitizer, but it is a gas. It is not marketed as a stand alone technology simply because of the production required to have ozone molecules visit every square inch of your pool before it is changed into something other than ozone. In other words, we still have problems with the short life span of ozone, and the distribution of it. Ozone is also not very effective on algae, so a bottled algaecide or Potassium Tetraborate is necessary.

However, ozone will continue to grab market share for pools. It gives water a better smell, taste and clarity than chlorine alone, and because it produces no byproducts, it doesn’t contribute to TDS. Ozone removes certain dissolved metals and rids the pool of soaps, scum, oils and chloramines. It also has synergy with halogens, meaning that when combined, they work even better on certain micro contaminants.

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Nature² Installation

It’s As Easy As 1 – 2 – 3!

1. Quick Installation of Nature²

   Complete installation instructions are shown on the box, in the box, and on the unit. If you have a hacksaw and some PVC glue, you’re halfway there! Simply cut the return pipe (after the filter and before any chemical dispenser), and glue the pipe ends in & out of the unit. Adapters allow for 1.5″ and 2″ pipe size.

   That’s it! No electrical hookup, bypass, special knowledge or permit needed! You’ll find the same simplicity of installation in the start up and care of your Nature² Purifier models A, G & M. Models AG, APC, VPG, CF and EXPRESS require no plumbing to be installed.

2. Simple Start Up of Nature²
   1. Balance Pool Water before installing cartridge.Unscrew the lid, and drop in the cartridge. Replace lid.Shock the pool with  chlorine. Use 1 lb. of granular or 1 gallon of liquid per 10,000 gallons of pool water to burn off contaminants and activate the cartridge.

   NOTE: Initial shock treatment with chlorine is required even with Chlorine – Free Recipe.

   1. Run the filter pump either 24 hours a day for 4 days, or 6 hours a day for 14 days, making sure to maintain a chlorine residual of 1 – 2 PPM.Let pool chlorine level dissipate to 0.4 – 0.6 PPM once start up period is complete.
3. Easy Care of Nature²

   Use one of these simple recipes:

   1. Low-Chlorine Recipe

      Ingredients:

      • Nature² PurifierChlorine Granules, tablets, liquid or a saltwater chlorine generatorpH and total Alkalinity adjusting chemicalsStandard water balance test kitCyanuric Acid, AKA…Water conditioner or Stabilizer

      What to do and when to do it:

      • Every day……….Run pump and filter at least 6 hours per day.Once a week……….Balance pH & Total AlkalinityTwice a week……….Check chlorine residual; add chlorine to maintain 0.4 – 0.6 PPM.As needed……….If water is hazy or after rainstorms, shocking the pool is recommended. You may use chlorine or non-chlorine shock treatments.
   2. Chlorine-Free Recipe

      Ingredients:

      • Nature² Purifier
      • Non-chlorine Shock {Potassium Peroxymonosulfate}
      • pH & Total Alkalinity adjusting chemicals
      • Standard water balance test kit
      • Sodium Tetraborate {optional}

      What to do and when to do it:

      • Every day……….run pump and filter at least 12 hours every day.Once a week……….balance pH and total alkalinity; add 1 lb of non-chlorine shock per 10,000 gallons.As needed……….If water is hazy or after rainstorms, add non-chlorine shock, Sodium Tetraborate and/ or algaecides may help to eliminate persistent algae.

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…..the #1 Chlorine Alternative according to an independent pool industry survey.

…..installed in over 180,000 pools in the U.S.

…..carried by more than 5,000 pool dealers nationwide, and growing.

…..endorsed by the 3 largest pool builders.

…..using breakthrough technology protected by 17 worldwide patents and 20 patents pending.

How does Nature² work?

The purifier precisely directs water flow through a six-month, replaceable cartridge. Inside, a non-electrical reaction “activates” oxygen by breaking the molecule into its nascent atoms, atomic oxygen – one of Earth’s most powerful sanitizers, to kill bacteria, viruses and algae. As if that weren’t enough, the Purifier also releases trace amounts of natural, algaestatic and bactericidal minerals into the pool to help prevent bacteria and algae growth. This is known as Catalytic Sanitation.

After installation, will pool maintenance change?

The most noticeable difference will be the dramatic reduction in chemicals used to keep the water balanced and healthy. You will also enjoy more time for yourself with less chemical maintenance, application and adjustments. The largest benefit to you will surely be the visual clarity and sparkle of the water….guaranteed. The water quality improves to be silky soft, with no chlorine or chemical odor. Nature² treated water exceeds EPA drinking water standards, so if you choose to drink, it will taste like a mountain stream.

Is Nature² compatible with other products?

Nature² is compatible with every type of chemical treatment program available except – Biguanide products (Baquacil® or Soft Swim® bromine, bromides and copper based algaecides.)

Is Nature² a filter?

No. A filter is designed to remove large particles and debris, while Nature² disinfects pool water by killing 99 .96% of bacteria, algae and viruses, which are too small to be caught by a filter. You need a filter and Nature².

When do I replace the cartridge?

The Nature² cartridge is designed to provide up to 6 months of continuous water purification, depending on the model. Each model comes with a reminder system which tells you when, how and where  to get a cartridge.

How do I dispose of used cartridges?

The minerals inside of the cartridge are natural, so it is completely safe for disposal with other household trash.

What affects cartridge life?

Hot weather, water balance, or water temperature do not affect the Nature² cartridge. 24 hour a day operation will reduce its life to about four months.

Do I still need to use chlorine?

As with any program, you’ll need to use a small amount of residual oxidizer. With Nature², you can reduce this by up to 90%. You can use undetectable amounts of chlorine (0.4 – 0.6 ppm), or follow our chlorine free program.

How often should a shock be used?

Because of the efficiency of Nature², super-oxidation is needed much less often, with non-chlorine shock, if desired.

Are minerals safe in a pool?

The minerals in Nature² are completely safe for your swimmers. In fact, they are lower than the EPA limit for drinking water. Water treated by Nature² actually exceeds EPA drinking water standards with respect to bacteria, silver and copper, so your pool water may actually be cleaner than the water you drink.

Can Nature² stain pool surfaces?

No. Minerals released by Nature² to provide residual cleaning remain well below levels that might cause staining. In fact, Nature² offers the pool industry’s ONLY “no-stain” warranty.

Is Nature² an “Ionizer?”

No. Ionizers require electricity to discharge copper (or metal alloy) ions into pool water. Conversely, Nature²’s non-electrical ceramic & mineral cartridge converts oxygen to little nascent atomic sanitizers, in addition to releasing micro-doses of bactericide and algaestat to keep a pool sanitary.

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Natural Chemistry’s line of enzyme products provide the modern pool with a natural method for combating organic matter in your pool water. These enzymes act as catalysts in specific chemical reactions; feeding on oils, fats, detergents, wastes and vegetative cellular matter (like dead algae cells). Enzymes are present in every living thing, and though they are not themselves “alive”, they consume organic matter as if they were.

Sun-tan oils, cosmetics, body oils & wastes and decaying micro-vegetation are just some of the organics that contaminate water in pools and spas. These combine with air-borne soot and fumes, and with the sanitizer used to keep the pool bacteria free, to create:

Natural Chemistry’s Pool Perfect and Pool First Aid are natural enzyme based formulas coupled with natural botanical extracts that gently, but powerfully, biodegrade organics in your pool water. Everywhere in nature, natural enzymes are busy breaking down complex organics to their original chemical building blocks. That’s how your body’s digestion works, that’s how oil spills are cleaned up, and that’s how composting works. It’s all natural! Oils and organics are recycled back into their original building blocks. By eliminating organics continually in your pool, several benefits occur:

Proven under the toughest conditions, Natural Chemistry’s enzymes are used on a grand scale:

Natural Chemistry’s Pool Perfect is sold in 1 Liter bottles at $19.95/ea and Pool First Aid is sold in 2 Liter bottles at $26.95/ea.

Dosage: Just pour in four (4) ounces per week, per 10,000 gallons.

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