All of the swimming pool heaters  from the small 100 (100,000 btu) unit to the largest 405’s (405,000 btu’s of gas usage per hour) will heat your pool. The smaller heaters are slower to heat, and will operate more often to keep up with the output of larger heaters. Larger heaters are a small bit more efficient than the smaller pool heater units. Use of a pool cover to retain heat and installing fences or other wind* obstructions can reduce demands on the pool heater.

If you are trying to heat a pool/spa combo, a 400 btu pool heater (the Big Boy) is usually used for fast (15 – 30 minutes) heat up of the spa.

Ask yourself a question about your anticipated usage patterns. If you will be heating intermittently, for example, turning on the heater on Friday, and turning it off on Monday, then a quick heat up is required. Heaters only add 1 – 3 degrees of heat per hour to the average pool. A larger heater is best for this usage pattern. If you expect to be maintaining a temperature by setting the thermostat, and maybe adding a few degrees in the evening or on weekends, then a smaller sizes of pool heaters can be used.

Use the chart below as a guideline in sizing a heater to your pool size. Factor in the usage patterns and other considerations above and then consider going one size larger for good measure.

*wind is the largest heat thief around your pool, with the possible exception of teenagers.

Swimming Pool Heater Sizing is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

Related Swimming Pool Posts

1. Swimming Pool Heaters
2. Swimming pool Solar Heating & Blankets
3. Millivolt vs. Electronic Pool Heaters

Considering today’s high fuel costs, does it make sense for me to heat my pool?

The answer is yes, if you want to enjoy comfortable swimming at your own convenience. One of the reasons for owning a pool is being able to swim when you want to. As for cost, that’s up to you. You really can control fuel consumption and waste simply by taking advantage of the suggestions made on this page.

What guidelines should be followed in heating our pool?

Taking into consideration the need to conserve energy and to minimize fuel consumption, any unnecessary pool heating should be avoided. You are the best judge of the kind of use you want out of your pool. Use of your pool for recreation, exercise, therapy or just general enjoyment obviously will require heating it. Your pool won’t contribute to your health or pleasure unless it’s warm enough to swim in comfortably, and when you want to swim. Actually, using your home pool can be far less wasteful of energy and cost you less in fuel than driving to distant resort and vacation areas for away-from-home recreation.

For pointers on saving energy and cutting fuel costs, see the list of suggestions on conserving energy.

How warm should I keep my pool?

That depends entirely on you, of course. The temperature recommended for recreational and competitive sports swimming by the American Red Cross and many swimming coaches is 78° F. This comfort level coincides with good fuel conservation practice, too.

Young children, the elderly and others often need 80° F or warmer water, however, and hydrotherapy calls for warmer water, too.

Although 78° F to 82° F takes in about everyone, how warm you should keep your pool actually depends on personal preference.

Obviously, a heated pool means more swimming. How much more?

You’re right. The sun alone usually can’t keep your pool water at that comfort minimum of 78° F. By having a heater to warm your water you can add substantially to the daily use of your pool—and you can also extend the so-called “swimming season.”

How much more swimming? From early morning to late evening, even with air temperatures of 65° or lower — if your pool is warm.

You can stretch your pool season by twice in most areas and even longer in other areas by having a heated pool. The usual 2-month season in Detroit, for example, can be doubled in time, and in Los Angeles the season can be more than tripled. In New York, Chicago and Philadelphia – double the season or better.

If we don’t heat our pool, how much swimming season can we expect?

Again, it depends on your climate and whether you use a pool cover or not. Without a pool cover you’ll probably have a season of only one or two months in most areas and perhaps three months or a little more with a cover.

During those months when the average temperature in your area is high enough to heat your pool water to a minimum 75°F—and hold it there—you will be able to boost this temperature to 78^°F or more if you use a good pool cover and keep it on your pool when the pool is not in use.

Pools that are not covered can lose 4° F to 5° F overnight in most parts of the country. With a cover, you can reduce that heat loss by 50% or more. So without a heater you should be able to use your pool in the afternoons and early evenings, in the warmest part of the season.

Remember that besides air temperature, you must consider such variables as wind speed and humidity, both of which affect the rate of heat loss from the pool. If your pool is not covered, try to protect the pool from breezes as best you can with walls, covered fences, shrubs, cabanas, etc.

Do we need to heat our pool when the weather’s hot?

Again, it depends on you and your personal pool temperature preference. It also depends on the climate in your area— and whether you use a good quality cover to conserve energy and heat.

Even using a cover, you’ll probably have to heat your pool a little, particularly during summer cool spells and for morning and evening swimming.

In Cleveland, Pittsburgh and Seattle, for example, even the July – August average temperatures are usually below 75° F and moderate heating would be essential for comfortable swimming. By contrast, average temperatures in summer are high and sustained. But “real” weather has a tendency to vary a lot from the mean, so it’s a good idea to rely on a heater to brighten up the cool spots and lengthen the swimming season.

What are the health benefits of heating my pool?

A pool that is properly heated and properly used can contribute to and help safeguard health. Doctors and physical therapists regard swimming as one of the most beneficial of cardiovascular exercises. It is an exercise that nearly everyone can do safely, while running and jogging are impossible for many elderly people and those who suffer from arthritis and muscular diseases.

By heating your pool, you make it possible to engage more often in swimming exercise because you extend the hours and the season your pool may be used.

A heated pool prevents chilling and the problems caused by the loss of too much body heat. Pediatricians say very young children are especially susceptible to various respiratory infections which may result from repeated chilling, and this is also true of elderly swimmers.

A heated pool is a must for therapeutic benefits and when swimming for relaxation. Doctors and Red Cross swimming experts recommend pool temperatures of from 78° F for recreation and competitive sports swimming, to 90° F or more for certain physical therapy patients.

What are the costs involved in heating a pool?

First, there is the initial or one-time cost of the heater you select and its hook-up or installation charge. Second, there is the monthly fuel cost, which varies with the type of heating system you buy, the use of your pool, the pool water temperature you prefer and other variables. Third, there is the matter of annual or semi-annual maintenance and service.

Operating costs can be kept to a minimum by installing an efficient, properly sized heater; using a good quality pool cover; and, of course, keeping your filter clean and your heating and filtering system well maintained.

We hear a lot of praise for the pool cover. Is it merited?

Most certainly. A good insulating pool cover can reduce heat loss by 50% or more, depending on your location and climate.

A pool that is uncovered can lose up to 5° F overnight; a good cover can cut that loss by half.

Used at night or whenever your pool is not in use, the pool cover can help save fuel costs by cutting heat loss regardless of the type of heating you utilize. And it can even make an unheated pool more “swimmable” by helping to retain the sun’s energy that naturally heats the pool during the daytime.

A pool cover stops water evaporation when it is in place. It isn’t the water loss that’s the big consideration here, it’s the heat loss. Every gallon of water that evaporates from a pool takes with it 6000 BTU’s of heat in the process, and a typical uncovered pool loses 1 to 1½ inches of water a week through evaporation. For a 20 by 40 foot pool, an inch of water amounts to 500 gallons—roughly, a heat loss of more than 30 therms every seven days. (A therm is equal to 100,000 BTU’s).

Besides stopping heat loss, a cover saves on pool chemicals, too, by keeping them from evaporating with the water.

What do I do about heating a spa that’s part of my pool?

One Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heater can serve both your pool and spa. Our Model ESC heater is equipped with a switch that allows you to select either a spa or pool setting, so that with proper plumbing and valving you can heat the spa portion of your pool installation to the temperature you want.

What are the advantages of a separate spa?

Originally these spas were purchased primarily by people with specific physical disabilities requiring hydrotherapy. Today, however, the spa is recognized as a place where anyone can relax and enjoy relief from the stresses of daily activities as well as from aches and pains requiring hydrotherapy. The spa, built as part of the main pool, is walled off with its own water circulation system. Both can use the same filter and heater system with simple controls to switch from one to the other. A spa typically operates at about 100° F and provides a therapeutic whirlpool effect by means of high velocity water jets or bubbles.

It is important to know that use of a spa at high temperatures can be hazardous, particularly in conjunction with alcohol or drugs, or when a person is very young, very old, pregnant, or in poor health. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission can provide guidelines for spa use. Consult your physician as to a safe temperature for you and your family.

What types of heating are available to us?

Several—from the sun itself to gas-fired, oil-fired, electric and elaborate solar heating systems.

The most widely used type is the direct fired natural gas heater because of its low cost, reliability, ease of operation and the wide availability of natural gas. In areas where natural gas is not available, heater models can be furnished equipped to use LP gas or propane gas.

Oil-fired pool heaters are a good choice in areas where natural gas is unavailable but home heating oil is. Electric heaters are generally much less efficient and more costly to operate than natural gas heaters, unless the electricity is hydroelectrically generated.

Solar heating ranges from simple “passive” solar—the familiar pool cover that absorbs and transmits some of the sun’s energy to pool water—to “active” solar heating systems.

Used alone, the passive heating technique merely serves to help keep pool temperatures at existing levels by retaining natural solar heat and preventing its loss. It cannot add heat to build up water temperature beyond what the sun supplies. Active solar uses traditional pool motors to move water from the pool through a system of solar collector panels for heating by the sun. This increases the amount of solar heat added to the pool.

Why not go strictly solar? After all, it’s free.

Not exactly—in fact, not by long shot. An adequate solar pool heating system will cost substantially more initially than fuel-fired heaters. It can add 25% to 50% to the cost of building a pool.

Solar systems have definite limitations. To begin with, they require sufficient area in which to install large collector panels, usually on a roof or deck overhang near the pool. Even in an area like southern California, the total solar collector area needs to be at least equal to 75% (100 % is better) of the pool surface area. This means that if you have a 20 x 40 pool you should have a 20 x 40 collector area available for best results.

Your pump would have to work almost continuously during most sunlight hours. This means your pump would be running during “peak load” periods when the utilities’ generating plants are often taxed to capacity—and when they charge more per kilowatt than during “off peak” periods.

Solar heating systems heat slowly—and not at all in cloudy, cool periods. Depending on the collector size and your location and climate, a solar system may not be able to warm the water to your desired temperature, even in the swimming season, except in the afternoon. And there is just not enough solar energy to heat your pool for swimming in the winter, early spring or late fall—no matter how many hours you pump.

What is the initial cost of a gas-fired heater?

Size for size, natural and propane gas-fired heaters cost the same. Prices depend on heater size, which in turn depends on the size of your pool—the gallonage of water to be heated. A good rule of thumb is 6% – 10% of the total pool cost, if yours is an in-ground pool. And for this small added cost you get considerably more use from your pool. If you have also decided on a spa, the piping to the pool is negligible in cost.

If you think of buying a pool in the same way you think of buying a new car, consider a heater the same way as adding a radio or air conditioning to an automobile. It’s an extra convenience you don’t use all the time, but it adds immeasurably to your enjoyment. With a pool heater you can swim anytime you choose.

What is the initial cost of an oil-fired heater?

It runs somewhat more than the cost of a natural or propane gas-fired heater. An oil-fired heater is ideal in areas where home heating oils are commonly used and natural gas is not available.

What about installation charges?

With natural gas-fired heaters, they consist of gas and water connections; for models with electronic control, an electrical connection to the filter pump circuit. Using propane gas requires a storage tank. With oil-fired heaters, you will require the services of a trained oil appliance technician and a storage tank. If your home already is heated by either oil or propane, the installation probably can be tied into your regular fuel supply.

In some areas, gas companies will make the gas installation with only a nominal charge. Check with your local gas utility and your Teledyne Laars/ Jandy dealer.

Must we go to the expense of building a shelter for our heater?

Not necessarily – it all depends on whether you want your heater installed indoors or outside. All Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters are design-certified for outdoor installation without a protective shelter. The Series 2 gas-fired models can be used outdoors in the attractive “stack-less” configuration in which they are shipped. They can also be installed indoors through use of the accessory draft-hood, which directs combustion products to a chimney or vent. The oil-fired models may be installed indoors with proper venting or outdoors with chimney cap supplied.

How about operating costs for fuel-fired heaters?

This is largely up to you. Like house heating, pool heating can be regulated to your budget. Swimming habits can be adjusted to your means. And you probably will want to use a pool cover to conserve as much energy as possible and still enjoy the benefits of owning your own pool.

Many common sense economies can be practiced—see our “Tips” section.

All things considered, which method of pool heating is the least expensive?

Studies of 10 – year “life cycle” costs have consistently shown that a good pool cover and a fuel-fired heater combination is less expensive, overall, than an active solar system alone, or active solar system and fuel-fired heater combination. This is true, even state tax credits are allowed for installing the active solar heater. Unless you live in an area where your electricity is generated by water power (hydroelectric), it is also true that the life cycle cost of a pool cover/fuel-fired heater combination is much less than that of an electric heater or combination.

What size pool heater will we need?

Heaters are sized mainly on the basis of the pool surface area and the difference between the pool and air temperatures. The average air temperature for the coldest month of pool use is used in the calculation.

The heating load could also be affected by such things as excessive wind exposure or much cooler night temperatures than daytime air temperatures; in those cases a heater with more capacity may be desirable.

Another factor which may determine the size of the heater you will need is the way you intend to use your pool. There are two common pool heating practices — “constant” temperature maintenance and “intermittent” heating. These are determined by how you want your pool heated—continually or on an intermittent basis.

To heat a pool quickly after periods of intermittent shutdown, a larger gas-fired heater is needed. And in colder climates a larger than standard size heater also is recommended for “constant” heating. Maintaining pool temperature requires the same amount of fuel regardless of the heater size. For intermittent heating however, a larger heater actually saves fuel because it brings the pool to temperature more quickly.

If you have questions about heater sizing, consult your Teledyne Laars/ Jandy dealer.

What are the differences between constant and intermittent heating?

Just what the terms imply. With constant heating your pool temperature is kept at a comfort level, and your pool is ready for use at all times. You set your thermostat at the temperature you want and forget it. This is very convenient but more costly as more fuel is used to maintain temperature in the pool at all times.

With intermittent heating, you heat your pool only for those periods when you expect to be using it. For example, if you swim only on weekends, you would heat up the water for weekend use only and shut off your heater during the week.

With either heating method, the use of a good pool cover can conserve heat and reduce fuel costs considerably.

Any pointers on intermittent heating?

While intermittent heating generally effects greater fuel economy, just as you would achieve by cutting off your furnace while away from home for several days, even less heating is required with this method if you keep a cover on your pool when it is not being used. A covered pool stays warmer than an uncovered one. Shutting down your heater for less than 2 or 3 days can be a false economy if you are not using a cover because building pool temperature up again tends to offset the “shutdown” savings. The less temperature buildup you require, the less energy will be needed.

Remember, too, that intermittent heating requires a heater large enough to heat your pool quickly when needed.

How can we conserve energy and still fully enjoy our pool?

First, keep your thermostat at the lowest comfortable setting—and mark this setting on your thermostat dial. Second, if you swim only on weekends and are not using a cover, keep your heater on a standby setting of 70 degrees. With a cover on the pool when you’re not using it, you can leave the thermostat at your normal setting. Third, if you’re vacationing for a couple of weeks or more, or shutting down for the winter, turn the heater off completely, including any pilot light. Fourth, use all available means to prevent heat loss. Shelter your pool from prevailing winds using hedges, other landscaping, cabafias or decorative fencing as windbreaks even though the pool is covered. Finally, use a pool cover whenever you are not using the pool.

Is a pool heater safe?

As safe as any major heating appliance in your home. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters, for example, are equipped with automatic safety pilots or ignition safeguards, pressure regulators, water pressure relief valves and other safety features. Shut-off controls are automatic. Electric shock hazard is avoided by construction and installation of the heater in accordance with strict electrical standards and codes.

Teledyne Laars/ Jandy offers two types of gas-fired heaters. One has a standing pilot and a built-in millivolt electrical system. The other has 24 volt solid-state electronic pilot ignition supplied by household current. Both are as safe as your other gas appliances when properly installed.

Teledyne Laars/ Jandy’ gas-fired models are design-certified by the American Gas Association. Our oil-fired heater, which is internally grounded according to the National Electric Code, is UL listed. Every Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heater is fired up and fully performance-tested at the factory prior to sale.

How automatic is a pool heater?

All you do is set it. For heating only at specific periods, a time clock or electronic timers may be used for automatic shutdown and turn-on

Are all gas-fired heaters built alike?

Definitely not. Some are built like an ordinary tank-type hot water heater, or with heating coils inside the water tank. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy gas-fired heaters were the first ever built specifically for pools. Our heaters utilize the direct-fire method for greater efficiency. Patented stainless steel burners heat finned copper tubes from which the pool water absorbs heat as it flows through them. This simplified direct-fire principle, first introduced by Teledyne Laars/ Jandy 40 years ago, makes our heaters the most imitated on the market.

Aren’t all oil-fired heaters basically the same?

No. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy oil-fired heaters are trim and compact, about half the size of many other oil-fired heaters. But the most important difference is that we have adapted our proven heat exchanger to use stainless steel finned tubes to resist sulphur corrosion. The result is efficient heat transfer with only minimal annual cleaning. And these oil-fired models use our time-tested controls throughout—all proven components for safe, automatic operation.

What features should we look for in a pool heater?

You should be concerned with economy of operation, reliability and durability. Conservation of energy and fuel economy are extremely important—and an efficient pool heater can achieve, both.

By eliminating wasteful heating, a heater can quickly pay for itself. For example, all Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters are equipped with a sensitive thermostatic pool temperature control. It maintains the pool at the exact temperature desired without wasteful, long on-and-off cycles of heating and cooling.

Rust, corrosion and scale are the elements that deteriorate pool heaters fast. That’s why we make our sturdy 1-piece heater jackets rigid and strong, with single-seam welding and a new longer lasting, weather resistant coating that resists corrosion and ends flaking of finish. Our heat exchanger produces a scouring-action water flow that virtually inhibits scaling.

We have a salt-water pool. Any special problems?

Yes. Salt water is highly corrosive, and a heater must be equipped with a special heat exchanger and other features to handle it. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters designed for salt water use are available on special order.

Will we have to buy any extras?

Not with Teledyne Laars/ Jandy. Everything you need for convenient, efficient operation is part of the heater package. In our gas-fired models with pilot light, included are such features as the Visoflame pilot lighting device that puts the pilot where it can be seen for fast checkout and easy lighting. Series 2 model ESC heaters have an electronic temperature controller which provides two separate temperature settings for the pool and spa modes of operation. This model also has electronic intermittent ignition for even lower operating costs.

Will my pool heater require much maintenance?

Not if it’s a Teledyne Laars/ Jandy. Usually, one maintenance inspection a year is sufficient to keep your heater working efficiently. Maintenance is largely a preventive measure used to safeguard your heater’s working condition. The ruggedness, corrosion-free construction and long-lasting finish of our heaters combine with simplicity of engineering to keep maintenance minimal.

How do I get service on my heater?

This should always be done by a trained technician. For years Teledyne Laars/ Jandy has been conducting service training schools in all parts of the country for pool service companies and our dealers to assure the availability of highly skilled technicians wherever you live. On Long Island, Paramount Pools has been an authorized Teledyne Laars/ Jandy installer and service center for over 18 years.

What about parts?

When you need them, we offer genuine factory parts through Teledyne Laars/ Jandy dealers. They are warehoused strategically across the nation to assure prompt replacement and repair regardless of where you live.

What about warranties?

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and the Federal Trade Commission require that product warranties be clearly and simply stated—and that such warranties be available to consumers prior to purchase. Be sure you ask for and read all warranties.

Our warranties are available from the dealer or by writing the factory. A warranty accompanies each heater, along with installation and operating instructions and service manual.

Equally important is the reputation of the manufacturer. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy has been standing behind its products for more than 40 years.

Why is the reputation of the manufacturer so important?

For two reasons: The quality of your heater and the protection of your investment in it. Teledyne Laars/ Jandy is the oldest and world’s largest gas pool heater manufacturer, with more heaters sold than all other brands combined. This is the result of engineering leadership that includes pioneering the first pool heater… the first stack-less model… the first line of heater to be fully approved for outdoor use… the first high-velocity flow-through tubes for heat exchangers… and the first truly compact oil-fired heater.

This leadership is sustained by a large national organization of distributors, dealers and technicians. Paramount Pools has been a dealer for over 18 years.

How long should a heater last?

Some heaters wear out in three or four years, but Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heaters normally last a lot longer. A product life of 10 to 12 years is not uncommon. Heater failure is usually the result of some outside cause—not normal usage—provided it has been properly maintained.

Could we add a heater later, after our pool is built?

Yes. Although a Teledyne Laars/ Jandy heater can be added at any time, it should be included from the beginning, just as a heating system is installed during the construction of a home. This means greater convenience for you and less installation cost. When you include a heater in the beginning, it costs only 6% – 10% of your pool investment and usually gives you 100% more enjoyment from your pool. If the heater is not installed when the pool is built, provision should be made for a heater stub-out in the return water line, and space or a concrete pad should be provided for future installation.

All things considered, what is the most important reason for choosing a heated swimming pool?

For the sheer enjoyment of swimming in real comfort— any time you want. Any time of the day, any day of the year. Owners of heated pools would answer this question in far more glowing terms, but what having a heated pool amounts to is the satisfaction of getting more—much more—from your pool investment in terms of year-round family fun.

Tips to help you conserve energy and heat your pool economically.

1. Keep a thermometer in your pool. It will pinpoint accurately the temperature most comfortable for you.
2. Keep your thermostat at the lowest comfortable setting. Each degree more heat than needed could add more to your monthly fuel cost and use up more energy than necessary.
3. Mark the “comfort setting” on the thermostat dial. This will prevent accidental or careless over-heating and waste of energy.
4. Lower thermostat to 70 degrees when pool is to be unused for three or four days. For longer periods, shut the heater off. You will save money on fuel consumption and help conserve energy.
5. Protect your pool from wind. Wind above 3 to 5 miles per hour can lower the pool temperature substantially. A hedge, cabana or decorative fence can be an effective windbreak.
6. Use a pool cover when pool is not in use. This can reduce heat loss by as much as 50%. If you are vacationing for a couple of weeks or shutting down for winter, turn the heater off completely, including any pilot light.
7. Drain heater completely prior to freezing weather. Freezing water inside the heat exchanger can result in costly repairs.
8. Get a maintenance checkup annually. It’s your best ounce of prevention. Call your Teledyne Laars/ Jandy dealer for a skilled technician to do the job. The cost is minimal and the service will keep your heater working efficiently for many years. Paramount Pools offers this service on Long Island, New York.

Facts about pool heating from Teledyne Laars is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

Related Swimming Pool Posts

1. Swimming pool Solar Heating & Blankets
2. Swimming Pool Heaters
3. Swimming Pool Heater Sizing

Solar heating is a very desirable way to heat your pool and spa for one simple reason; It’s free heat. After the initial investment, the heat that raises the water temperature in your pool or spa is free. The sun provides the energy to generate the heat through the solar panels or solar blanket. Solar blankets also prevent massive heat loss. When a pool or spa is covered with a solar blanket, the heating cost can drop by 70%.

Use and Care of Your Solar Blanket

Solar blankets serve a very useful role. Retaining heat is the most important one. A solar blanket will also help raise the water temperature a certain amount, but if you are expecting a solar blanket to heat your pool to 90 degrees in March or September, you will be disappointed. You can, however, expect a modest temperature increase with your solar blanket. The following are tips and ideas that will prolong the life of your solar blanket and make the most of your solar blanket experience.

1. Getting Your Solar Blanket

   When you measure your pool for your new solar cover, measure from the longest and widest points of the pool. Include steps and loveseats. When you get your solar blanket, it will be a large triangle. Lay it over the pool, bubble side down and leave it for a day or two before trimming it. This will allow the blanket to “open” a bit before trimming, giving a better fit.

2. Trimming Your Solar Blanket

   After your solar blanket has sat out of the box, and over the pool for a day or two, it is time to trim it. Use a sharp pair if scissors or a razor knife. The idea is to have the blanket fit edge to edge, end to end. Cut the solar blanket all the way around the pool; be sure to cut the corners to the proper radius.

3. Storing Your Solar Blanket

   The best way to store your solar blanket is with a roller, or a solar blanket reel. The solar blanket is attached to the roller with straps, and is rolled up when the blanket is not in use. Most rollers have wheels that can be used to store the cover and reel when it’s party time or when you just don’t want it around. However, you do not need a solar blanket reel. Most solar covers come with a large white bag for storage. You can just pull the solar blanket off of the pool, fold it and put it in the shed or garage. When storing your solar cover for the winter, use a swimming pool cover cleaner and deodorizer. Do not leave the solar cover out in the weather during the winter unless it is on the pool, in use.

1. Cleaning Your Solar Blanket

The best way to clean your solar blanket is to use a solar cover cleaner and disinfectant.

Wet the solar blanket and use your telescoping pole and your pool brush. Squirt the solar blanket cleaner on the cover and scrub. You can do this with the cover right on the pool if you want to. When you are done, get a hose and hose the dirty water into the skimmer opening. It may be easier to remove the solar cover from the pool and spread it out on the lawn. If you have a slope you can spread it on, this will make rinsing easier. For a quick cleaning, you can just hose off the solar cover while it is on the pool. Hose the debris right into the skimmer opening or into the corner and use your leaf net to remove the debris.

1. Getting the Most Out Of Your Solar Blanket

You can increase the life of your solar blanket by following a few simple rules. Never leave your solar blanket outside when the pool is winterized. Make sure you keep a chemically balanced swimming pool. Remove the solar cover when you shock the pool, and leave it off for 2-3 hours after any chemical treatment. Use a cover cleaner and deodorizer on a regular basis.

1. When Is It Time to Replace My Solar Blanket?

Your solar cover will not last forever. The plastic will begin to deteriorate after time. When the solar blanket begins to flake and get brittle, throw it away. The first sign of the end of your solar blanket is when the bubbles on the underside begin to fall off. Then you can use it to cover the firewood pile.

Solar Pool Heating Systems

Why Solar Heating?

As mentioned before, the best thing about solar heating is that it is free heat. After the initial investment, there will be not additional cost for your heat. You can’t beat it. You will not get the response you will get from a gas heater, but solar pool heaters will raise the water temperature comfortable for swimming and more. The response you get from your pool solar heating system will depend on your geographical area, the weather, the location of the panels, whether the pool is covered and the system you choose. According to the United States Dept. of Energy, solar pool heating is the most cost effective use of solar energy. Also, there are no expensive parts to replace, no pilots to light, no electronic components. And best of all, no expensive fuel to burn away

How does Solar Pool Heating Work?

Solar pool heating systems usually have four basic components. The pump, the filter, solar collectors and a control valve. The pump takes the filtered water from the swimming pool or spa and sends it through the filter. The water goes from the filter to a flow control valve. The valve regulates how much water goes to the collector panels. If there is too much water flow going through the solar panels, the water will not heat as fast as it could. If the water travels slowly through the solar panels it will get really hot, then the hot water is mixed with pool or spa water, raising the water temperature. There are reports of “runaway” solar systems that have heated a pool over 100 degrees, so depending on the weather, your geographical location and the position of the swimming pool solar panels, you can get and keep your pool at your desired temperature. Solar heaters can also be used in conjunction with a conventional swimming pool heater, lowering heating costs by 60%-70%. The use of a solar blanket will double the efficiency of your solar pool heating system. Solar heating systems can also be used to COOL the pool or spa in certain geographical areas. If the pool is too warm, the solar system can be set to run during the night hours, and off during the daylight hours. This will lower the water temperature.

Care and Maintenance of Your Solar Pool Heating System

Solar heating systems require very little maintenance. It is important to keep your water chemistry balanced and your filter in good operating condition. Since the water that goes into the solar collector comes straight from the filter, if there is anything that bypasses the filter, it can potentially clog the solar collector. Water chemistry is just as important. Improper pH and calcium hardness can cause mineral build up in the solar collectors, and can also cause the plastic to become brittle. It is a good idea to use scale inhibitor on a regular basis to prevent build up in the solar collector.

Winterizing Your Solar Heating System

Most solar heating systems have drain plugs to remove the water. It is also a good idea to blow air through the collector to remove any trapped water. This is also the best opportunity to inspect the collector panel for damage and inspect the mounting. Make sure the solar panels are secure and ready for the winter. If you have any questions, please contact our technical support professionals for assistance.

Liquid Solar Blanket

Tropical Fish Liquid Solar Blanket

A chemical with high molecular adhesion, Liquid Solar Blanket forms an invisible layer on top of the pool water surface. When the water is calm, the molecules form a barrier to heat loss. Although it doesn’t heat the pool, it does retain the heat from the day, or heat put into the water from a gas or solar pool heater. For more information, please go to our Liquid Solar Blanket page.

Swimming pool Solar Heating & Blankets is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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The interface of the plastic skimmer to the concrete pool, plaster, tile and coping creates many opportunities for problems to occur. Common skimmer problems include: separation from the pool wall (beam), freeze damage, leaking or collapsed/ separated pipes (especially if flexible or black poly pipe was used).

Skimmer replacement involves removing the coping stone over the skimmer, cutting the concrete deck on top of the skimmer and the concrete that surrounds it. The skimmer is pulled off the wall and cut from the pipe(s) beneath. The new skimmer (the same or a larger one may be preferred) is plumbed and secured in place. Concrete and coping is put back.

Skimmer replacement?

Skimmer replacement is usually done at the time of a renovation, or by itself if necessary. Cost comes out to about $1,200 for inground pool.  Old pools sometimes used flex piping from the skimmer to the pump, underground. These pipes can crimp, usually where the pipe was bent, especially right at the skimmer. Using chlorine tablets in skimmers for many years can lead to this problem.

If your plastic skimmer has pulled away from the concrete pool and is leaking, use an underwater pool putty to patch it up temporarily and stop the leak. This is a very common pool leak source. You may want to use a dye test to determine if your skimmers are leaking. Small debris stuck in a small crack is also a clue of a leak. Skimmers can also get cracks in the plastic from concrete expansion/heave. Again pool putty is used to repair this.

If your skimmer weir (the flapper gate) has come out or broken, replace it with new. The weir creates a small waterfall into the basket which speeds up water flow, drawing more debris in. The weir also helps to keep debris in the skimmer neck when the pump shuts off. Similarly, replace a broken skimmer lid, before someone steps in it.

If you suspect that your skimmer line may be clogged, here are some useful tricks. Use a plumber’s snake to try and break up the leaves & sticks (or whatever), or better yet, try a “drain king” which attaches to the garden hose and puts high pressure in the line. Try it in both directions, that is, from skimmer towards pump, and from pump towards skimmer. I usually use a plug at the skimmer end  to build up pressure in the line for 5-10 seconds. Repeatedly doing this quickly is the best way to clear a pipe that I’ve used.

Swimming Pool Skimmers is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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The sand in a sand filter (#20 silica sand; 45 – 55 mm) is specially graded to trap particles in the 20 – 100 micron range. As a sand filter collects dirt, its efficiency increases, trapping more dirt. When your pressure gauge shows a reading 8 – 10 lbs. over its clean, start-up reading, it is time to backwash the captured dirt out of the filter.

“They Say” that a sand bed should be replaced after seven years. Gradual loss of efficiency may be hard to notice. If your filter requires frequent backwashing, every week or two, the sand bed may be “mudballed”, or it may be “channeled”. It may also “calcify” with calcium deposits. Other water balance problems may also contribute to sand deterioration, but a properly sized filter could go over 10 years between sand changes.

Use of Biguanide chemicals, i.e., Soft Swim or Baquacil require annual cleaning of the sand to prevent it from “gumming up”. High amounts of bather oils can gum up a sand bed. And just the years of a pump forcing water over the grains wears away the sharp edges of the sand. Such sand becomes more circular, and traps dirt less efficiently.

Remember that for sparkling water, we need the trio of sanitation, filtration and circulation. If one of these areas is lacking, the water won’t look so hot. So, if you’ve kept very good chemical maintenance and your circulation is good, you may have a filter problem. Is the filter sized properly? Many filters of the 70’s – 80’s were grossly undersized, the trend now in pool filtration is “Go Big Early”.

Adding a small amount of aluminum sulfate or “alum”, through the skimmer will form a gelatinous layer on top of the sand bed, useful in cleaning up an undesirable water condition. You can also add a small amount of DE powder or other filter media.

“How do I Backwash my Sand Filter”

When the pressure gauge is reading 8 – 10 lbs above the clean, starting pressure (after backwashing), it is time to backwash the filter. This process involves turning a valve so that the water will flow through the filter backwards, flushing out the dirt. Hence the name “back-washing.” Sand filters can have either a push-pull valve (aka slide valve) or a multiport valve. The multiport valve has multiple ports on the valve, usually 6 positions:

• FILTER: Keep it here 99% of the time, except when backwashing, rinsing or wasting
• RINSE: Use this setting for 20 seconds after backwashing to rinse tank
• RECIRCULATE: Use this if the filter’s broken; at least you’re circulating.
• BACKWASH: Use this setting to reverse the flow in the filter and send water out of the waste line. Make sure valves are open or hoses rolled out.
• CLOSED: Put here to close off flow from the pool, usually to work on the equipment. Do not operate pump with valve in closed position
• WASTE/DRAIN: Another filter bypass setting, but this one sends the water out of the waste pipe (hose), instead of returning it to the pool. Used to lower pool water level or to vacuum to waste.

So, to backwash a sand filter with a multiport valve;

1. Shut off the pump motor.
2. Press down on valve handle, rotate valve from FILTER to BACKWASH position.
3. Roll out any backwash hose or open any waste line valves.
4. Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on.
5. Watch pressure gauge for backpressure and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly.
6. After hose fills with water, run for 2 – 3 minutes or until water runs clear.
7. Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle from BACKWASH to RINSE position.
8. Run on rinse for 15 – 25 seconds.
9. Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle from RINSE to FILTER position.
10. Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose.

To Backwash a sand filter with a slide valve;

1. Shut off pump motor, roll out backwash hose (if you have it).
2. Twist to unlock plunger T-handle, pull/ twist plunger upwards 2 – 3″.
3. Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on.
4. Watch pressure gauge for backpressure (+ 40 psi) and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly.
5. After hose fills with water, run for 2 – 3 minutes or until water runs clear.
6. Shut off pump motor and push T-handle back down into locked position.
7. Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose.

A properly sized sand filter should, in most cases, be able to operate continuously for a period of 4 weeks between backwashings. A “Filter Run” of less than 4 weeks  may indicate sand problems (or sizing problems).

Sand in the pool?

Bad news. If it hasn’t blown in, or been carried in on the feet of swimmers, it’s likely coming from the filter. A broken lateral or standpipe may be the cause. You’ll need to empty the tank, locate and make the repair, refill with fresh sand and test.

Sand bed replacement

To replace filter sand, you’ll first need to empty out the existing sand. One method is to spread a tarp out beneath the filter drain assembly. Then remove the entire assembly, turn on the pump, and step back! The water pumping through the filter will remove most of the sand out of the drain hole. Another method is to remove the drain plug only and allow the filter to drain for several hours or days. Then, remove the top dome or multiport valve.

If you have the Triton style dome on the top of the filter, you’ll need the octagonal dome wrench to remove the dome. Once the dome is removed, gently twist the baffle/pipe out of the way so you can get a scoop to the sand.

If you have a Top Mount Multiport, you may need to cut some pipes to remove the valve (you can reconnect them later with unions or couplings.) Once these pipes are cut, the clamp band connecting the valve to the filter is removed, and the valve pulls straight up and off. Plug, tape, or cover the standpipe so you don’t spill sand in it. Then you can use a shop vacuum to suck out the sand, or you can use a small cup to scoop out the sand.

Be very careful as you scoop or suck, not to knock or break the laterals at the bottom of the tank. They can be brittle when the get older, and it may be wise to replace laterals at the time you replace the filter sand. Use a hose to wash out the sand beneath the laterals. When the tank is empty of sand, replace the drain assembly, using silicone sealant on the threads. Then add enough water to cover the laterals, so the new sand pouring in won’t crack them. Again, if you have the top mounted multiport, cover the standpipe opening. If you have a side mounted filter valve, gently push the intake baffle to one side, or wrap the baffle with a small plastic bag to keep the sand from entering the pipe as you pour it in.

Pour it in! Use only specially graded pool filter sand; #20 silica sand, 45-55 mm. On top mounted multiport filters, use care to keep the lateral/ hub assembly in the center, and on the bottom of the tank. After each bag of sand is added, make sure it is still centered . It may be useful to have a helper hold the standpipe in place while the sand is added.

Add the recommended amount of sand only; more is not better! If you don’t know this info, contact your dealer or manufacturer. Most tanks are filled only about 2/3 of the way full, to leave enough “freeboard” space on top. When full, lube o-rings and reassemble filter top. Make sure lid is very secure,  lids that blow off can be very dangerous. It’s a good idea to replace the o-ring on the filter domes.

When the filter is started up, start up on “RINSE” setting first (if you have a multiport valve). Then backwash and rinse again. If you have a push pull valve, backwash first. This final step will prevent putting a lot of “sand dust” into the pool after a sand change.

Leaking filter?

Sand filter tanks rarely leak themselves, however leaks often occur in and around the multiport interface. A common complaint is that water is leaking out of the backwash port of the multiport (six position) valve. Slight adjustments of the handle may temporarily solve this problem. A more permanent repair may necessitate replacement of the spider gasket inside of the multiport. You may also have leakage up around the middle of the handle on the valve, which external adjustments rarely fix. This usually requires replacement of a Teflon washer and sometimes the spring as well.

You may have a push pull valve or slide valve as it is sometimes called instead of a multiport valve.  Leaks can occur through the top of the index plate, or out of the backwash line. This is a easy inspection to determine what o-rings need to be replaced. Leaks can also occur at the bulkhead unions where the valve attaches to the side of the filter, or around the threads on a top-mounted multiport. The drain plug can leak if not secured tightly or properly sealed.

Leaking valve repair. Usually a one hour job, plus internal valve components; gaskets or springs. You can find replacement parts for filters on our filter parts page, just find out the make and model of your filter, go to our filter parts page, and click on the filter you have.

Filter replacement?

Well, they don’t last forever. But almost. A new filter may be in order if your current filter is outdated (15-20 yrs old) and difficult to use or get parts for. If the filter tank has cracked, usually from freeze damage or possibly from closing off return valves while the pump is running, a new filter is in order. Replacement is usually fairly simple, with just a few plumbing fittings needed.

Sand filter replacement: Price is size dependent, however, as an example, we sell the Pac Fab Tagelus TA-60 filter for $294.97.

Sand Filters, information page is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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Swimming Pool Filter pumps

The heart of your circulation system, your pool pump, pulls water from one or more suction ports (i.e., skimmer & main drain), and then pushes it through the filter & heater (if you have one) and back to the pools’ return ports.

How do I know what pump is right for me?

Contrary to the advice given when selecting a filter, a bigger pump is not always a good thing. Unless you have been advised by a pool professional, or someone in the know that your existing pump was undersized, it would be wise to keep the same horsepower as you have now.

How do I know what Horsepower my pump motor is?

The horsepower should be listed on the nameplate (left) of the pump motor (in very tiny letters – hp). If the motor nameplate is burnt or worn off, sometimes a part number of the impeller (right) can tell us which hp your pump motor is.

If the existing pump has done you well, it is easiest to plumb and wire with the exact same pump. The heights and lengths are the same, which makes the job a bit simpler.

Are all of the pumps the same?

All of the manufacturers of pumps represented are Major Manufacturers; well respected, very large, international market leaders. The motors used on the pumps are all nearly the same. There has not been any really astounding inventions in pump technology in the last few years, so all innovations have been implemented by most in one way or another. Each pump is slightly different in its hydraulics, shape, basket and lid, and colors. But these may or may not matter a whole lot. Read on for more substantial ways to discern between pumps.

You will find that there are low head pumps for aboveground pools and medium and high head pumps for inground pools. “head” refers to the flow rate, in a backwards kind of way.

• Aboveground filter systems and small inground pools (under 10,000 gals) should use a Low Head pump like a Maxim, or Dynamo or  Power-Flo.
• Pools from 10,000-20,000 gals can use a Medium Head pump like a SuperPump, a Pinnacle or Cygnet.
• Pools over 20,000 gals could possibly use the High Head pumps like, Super II, Challenger, Ultra-Flo or the Sta-Rite pumps.
• Pool/ Spa combos with at least 3 lines influent and 2 – 3 back to the pool, 2″ plumbing may be able to handle the Ultra High Head pumps like NorthStar and the WhisperFlo.

Remember to match hp and pump type and flow rate. Use the Flow Rate Charts, (see below) based on a sample feet of head (vertical axis) of 40 or 50 feet. This is the only true way to compare pump to pump.

As Americans, it’s natural to want the big V8 power plant, but a pump that is too powerful could actually prevent filtration while damaging the filter and heater. Pipes or fittings could even be blown apart. When matching pumps to filters, check the Design Flow Rate of the filter from the nameplate. The average flow for the pump you select, should be within 10% of the filter’s Design Flow Rate.

Remember also, that a smaller hp motor is going to draw fewer amps, which is going to cost less to operate. If you are careful to match up flow charts, you could actually reduce the hp required, while increasing the head of the pump. For instance, a 3/4 hp Whisperflo produces the same amount of flow as a 1 1/2 hp SuperPump. So, you could replace one with the other, while electrical costs are nearly cut in half!

So, when selecting a pump, keep it close to the original specifications, and use the Flow Charts. Most systems could handle a small increase in pump size, especially if you are replacing the filter with a larger one.

The water is moved by a brass or plastic impeller that is shaft driven by an electric motor. On the way to the pump, the water is under suction or vacuum. After the impeller, the water is now under pressure until it is released into the pool. The 3/4 – 2.0 hp motor is powered from a breaker on your electric panel (or fuse box), at 115 or 230 volts. Usually motors over 2 hp need 230V power to operate, and most smaller Hp pumps convert to accept either 115 or 230 volts. Above ground units may plug into an 115V GFCI outlet. (Be sure to buy a Pump that will match the correct voltage going to your existing power supply). Electrical consumption will vary by area, however, manufacturers have been designing motors and pumps (the wet end) which are more efficient and consume much less energy than older pumps. The smaller the Amp draw of the motor, the less expensive it will be to operate.

How long do motors last?

Motors typically last an average of eight years before needing either rebuilding or replacing. Noisy, screeching front and/ or rear bearings will let you know when you need to do something.

Pump Troubleshooting Guide

This easy to read guide will help you with some of the most common problems that occur with pumps.

Leaking pump?

A very common problem is the threaded fitting carrying water out of the pump shrinking and allowing water to drip, run and then spray. This can be replaced with a high temp fitting to prevent its reoccurrence. Approximately $10 parts and one hour labor. Water may also leak from a worn out mechanical seal. This seal is the separation between the wet end and the dry end (motor) of the pump. This mechanical shaft seal should be replaced. Approximately $12 for the seal and one hour labor.

Air in pump basket?

The pump is meant to operate air free. After some time, you may notice air in the basket, especially if you have a clear lid to observe such things. This can reduce filtering efficiency, allow dangerous air to build up in filter, and sometimes prevent your pump from catching prime (being able to move water). The problem is usually located around the pump, above-ground. Occasionally, we have to look underground for the source of the air. Approximately 1 – 4 hours labor. Sometimes air in the pump basket can be caused by something as simple as the water level being too low in the pool. You might also want to check the skimmer weir. This is a plastic flap at the throat of the skimmer that keeps the debris in the skimmer when the pump is off. If the skimmer weir is stuck it can cause the skimmer to drain and take in air. Also check that the pump basket lid is on tight and the o-ring is lubricated.

Pump is not pumping water like usual?

Check your skimmer baskets for heavy debris. Make sure the pump basket is clean and properly positioned. Some types of pumps have a pump strainer basket that locks into place to prevent the basket from floating and causing the pump to cavitate, or starve for water. Sometimes when we get repair calls like this we’ll find that the pump basket is cracked and it is allowing debris to clog the pump’s impeller. If the pump basket is cracked or damaged, it should be replaced. To check the impeller, turn off the motor, remove the pump basket and reach into the volute and feel if it is clogged with debris. If you cannot feel for sure, you may need to remove the motor from the pump to properly inspect the impeller. Many times you need only remove a clamp band to separate the motor from the pump.

Noisy Motor?

Inside of your pump’s motor are a front bearing and a rear bearing. These bearings are sealed and cannot be re-packed or re-lubricated. They are replaced when they begin to scream and screech. Bearings can become damaged when the pump has run dry and overheated, or if the pump is put under high loads. A local motor shop can replace the bearings for you, usually for under $100. One test I do is to remove the motor from the pump, and turn it on. If it still screeches (while not pumping anything) it is going to be the bearings. Rebuild it, or better yet, just replace the motor. A noisy pump can also mean cavitation. This sounds less like screeching and more like grinding. This condition is caused by starving the pump for water. If possible, open more valves, or find the cause of the obstruction that is blocking water flow into the pump. It may be the impeller. Finally, noisy pumps can be the sound of components striking one another. The impeller can, on stub shaft models, come loose, and hit against the impeller housing. The internal fan can break and hit against the motor side. Both instances will resolve themselves. At 3450 rpm, it won’t take long for the fan to wear down or the impeller to chew right through the housing. These conditions are rare, and probably will require a new pump.

Motor will not start or turn on

First check that you have power. Is the breaker on? Time-clock on? All switches on? Use an electric meter to be sure that voltage is correct. Check that all electrical connections are tight and not corroded or shorted out by bugs or debris. Again, the use of a meter or test lamp will check this with certainty. If there is power going all the way to the motor, the motor may have become shorted across its windings.

Motor hums but will not start

The impeller may be clogged with debris. Turn off the power, and spin the impeller shaft. If it won’t turn freely, remove the motor from the pump and clean the impeller. If it does spin, check the capacitor. If  it is a stub shaft type motor, check that the impeller is not hitting the impeller housing.

The capacitor is the black cylinder on the back of the motor, although sometimes it is silver and mounted on top of the motor. Check the capacitor for white residue or oily discharge or for bulging. Sometimes even a fine looking capacitor can be bad. Replace with a new capacitor of the same rating.

Finally, low voltage can be a cause of a humming but not starting motor. New motors are wired 220 volts, so if you hook it up to 110 volts, it will only hum, or cycle. Or perhaps one of the power leads is loose, or shorted. Check with a Multimeter to verify the correct voltage, with a variance of 10% allowed.

Motor Cycling

If the motor runs for a short while, shuts itself off, and turns itself back on later, it may be overheating. Normal motor temperature is over 140 degrees, so all motors run hot. But a cycling motor may indicate that the thermal overload is kicking it off. If this motor was just replaced, make sure that the electrical supply connections are correct and the wire size is correct for the voltage it is carrying. Low voltage can cause overheating. Inadequate ventilation can cause overheating, so make sure that the air vents are unobstructed. Usually, old motors that suddenly begin to overheat will need to be replaced. They usually have a short inside, across the windings. And motors are just not rewound anymore like they were in the old days.

How to INSTALL an entire new pump

Plumbing in a new pump motor…

Cut the pipes going into the front of the existing (old) pump, and the pipe coming out of the top. Important: Choose your cut location so as to allow room on either side of the cut to glue on a repair coupling. Remove the wires and the conduit adapter from the rear of the motor. Remove the MTA fittings threaded into the front and top of the old pump. Using Teflon tape and perhaps also silicone sealant, thread in the fittings you removed from the old pump. Note: Do Not Over-tighten, turn only 1 1/2 turns past hand tight. Using rubber mission couplings, PVC unions or simple slip x slip couplings, reconnect the pipe you cut. On PVC fittings, use a good primer and good, fresh PVC glue for pressure applications.

Wiring up a new pump motor…

First, screw in the conduit adapter onto the back of  the motor. This adapter is usually removed from the old pump and screwed into the 3/4″ threaded hole where the wires enter the back of the motor. Some motors offer an additional port of entry on the top for wiring flexibility. Remove the back of the motor and run the wires in through the adapter, and tighten down the threaded connector to secure the wires and keep out moisture and insects. Notice where the wires enter the back of the motor, on the right side, a terminal board that has 2 brass screws for clamping down the 2 wires (lines) coming in. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which screw. Above the terminal board, there is a green screw that is for clamping down the ground wire.

All pump motors are wired to receive 230 Volts from the factory. That is, 2 lines (wires) carrying 115 Volts each. So, you need to know if you have 115 Volts coming in, or if it’s 230 Volts. Usually 230 Volt service will have 2 wires of the same color, (and one green ground wire), while 115 Volt service will have perhaps one red (hot), one white (neutral), and one green. You should use a meter to be sure, but you could just look at the breaker. If 2 of the wires come off of one breaker, then you have 230 Volts. If one is connected to a breaker, and the other to the ‘neutral’ Buss bar, then it is 115 Volt service. Or look at the voltage plate on the old motor and see how it was hooked up. Is it matching the Low Voltage diagram (115 Volt), or matching the high voltage diagram (230 Volt)?
If you have 230 Volt service, hook up the wires coming into the motor to the brass terminals described above. If you have 115 Volt service, follow the instructions on the motor label to switch the motor to receive 115 Volt. This is a very easy switch of only one wire. Again, the motor comes factory wired for 230 Volt. If you are connecting 115 Volts to it, then switch the motor first. Putting 230 Volts into a 115 Volt motor can damage the windings, and perhaps fail the motor. After switching the motor to 115 Volts, connect the power wires to the brass terminals as described above (again it doesn’t matter which wire goes to which screw).

Replacing the motor (not the plastic wet end, just the motor)

Having learned how to remove and break down a pump and motor in the previous sections, replacing any of the components is simply a matter of disassembling the pump down to the component that needs replacement, getting a replacement part, and reassembling the unit. Of course, if the entire pump and motor is to be replaced, you purchase the replacement as a unit and plumb it in as previously described.

Sometimes the motor will trip the circuit breaker when you try to start it. If this happens it is usually because there is something wrong with the motor; however, it could be a bad breaker or one that is simply undersized for the job and has finally worn out. To replace the motor here is the procedure:

1. Break down the unit as described in the section on changing a seal. Remove the shaft extender by removing the Allen-Head setscrews and pulling the extender off the motor shaft. Sometimes this might need persuasion. Use your large flat-blade screwdriver to pry the extender away from the motor body. Sometimes corrosion will eat away at the setscrews and extender – if it is too tough to remove, replace it.
2. Before sliding the shaft extender on the new motor, clean the motor shaft with a fine emery cloth such as you might have in your copper pipe solder kit. Apply a light coat of silicone lube to the shaft. When you put the extender on the motor shaft, the setscrews go into a groove that runs along the shaft. This groove allows the screws to grip and not slide around the shaft.
3. Now slide the new extender in place, lining up the setscrews along the channel, but do not tighten the setscrews. When you have reassembled the bracket and seal plate, seal, and impeller, you can adjust the impeller to just barely clear the seal plate face, then tighten the setscrews. Be sure the impeller is screwed tightly onto the shaft extender before making this adjustment. If it is loose, when the motor starts it will tighten the impeller, by turning it tighter against the extender, thereby tightening it against the seal plate, seizing up the unit.
4. Secure the shaft extender with your pliers or 3/8 – inch box wrench and lay a rag over the impeller. Firmly hand tighten it. Reassemble the remaining pump parts and/or re-plumb the entire unit back into place.
5. Follow wiring instructions above, in previous section on installing new pumps.

Lubrication…

I always try to stress to pool owners that a lot of air in the pump or loss of prime problems are due to lack of lubrication on the pump lid o-ring. Lubricants like Magic Lube (Teflon based) or Jack’s Lube are always a great choice. Remember that a little dab will do the job. Never use a petroleum based product (i.e. Vaseline) for lubrication on o-rings. Inspect the pump o-ring for cracks, splits, or pinch marks. Finding little problems can prevent big problems from occurring.

Replacing the Mechanical Shaft Seal

All pumps have seals to prevent water from leaking out along the motor shaft. When these wear out due to overheating, vibration or a sudden change in water pressure – you will need to replace your pump shaft seal. The first thing to do is to turn off the electricity to the motor at the breaker.

1. To access this seal for replacement, remove the four bolts that hold the pump halves together, it is not necessary to remove the entire pump from the plumbing system.
2. Grasp the motor and pull it and the bracket away from the pump volute. Wiggle it slightly from side to side as you pull back to help break this joint.
   

   Replacing the Mechanical Shaft Seal

   All pumps have seals to prevent water from leaking out along the motor shaft. When these wear out due to overheating, vibration or a sudden change in water pressure – you will need to replace your pump shaft seal. The first thing to do is to turn off the electricity to the motor at the circuit breaker.

   1. To access this seal for replacement, remove the four bolts that hold the pump halves together, it is not necessary to remove the entire pump from the plumbing system.
   2. Grasp the motor and pull it and the bracket away from the pump volute. Wiggle it slightly from side to side as you pull back to help break this joint.
   1. Take your pliers or a wrench and hold the shaft extender to prevent it from turning. Unscrew the impeller from the shaft extender using an impeller wrench. You can also wrap a rag over the face of the impeller so you don’t cut yourself and twist it off by hand. As a last resort, hold a large screwdriver against the impeller and tap it gently with a hammer. Use care not to damage the impeller. Use even more care that the screwdriver doesn’t slip and damage you.
   2. Remove the four bolts that hold the bracket on the motor. If needed, use a hammer to gently tap the bracket away from the motor.
   3. Remove both halves of the old seal. Notice how each half is installed so you get the new one back in the same way. One half is in the back of the impeller and is easily popped out with a flat-blade screwdriver. The other half is in the seal plate and motor bracket unit. Lay the bracket on your workbench with the seal on the bottom. You will see the back of the seal through the hole in the seal plate. Using the flat-blade screwdriver once again, put the tip on the back of the seal and tap it with a hammer. It will pop out easily.
   4. Install the new seal. First, look up your pump in the manufacturer’s literature or supply house (Poolcenter.com!) catalog to determine what model seal you need.  Clean out the seal plate and impeller where you have just removed the old seal. Use an emery cloth or a small wire brush and water. Dry each area and apply a small amount of silicone lubricant to help the new seal slide into place. Install each half of the seal the same way you removed the old one, white ceramic of one half facing the glazed carbon ridge of the other half. Use care in installing not to damage, nick or soil the face of either seal half.
   5. Gaskets. When you break apart a pump, the old gasket usually won’t reseal. Clean all of the old gasket off of the seal plate and volute. Scrape it clean if needed with a flat blade screwdriver. Now reassemble the pump the same way you took it apart, placing a new gasket between the pump halves.
   6. Check for leaks by starting the pump and let it run several minutes. A fresh paper gasket might leak for a few minutes until it becomes wet and swells to fill all the gaps, but it should stop leaking after a short time. If your job does leak, take it apart and go over each step again, making sure the seal halves are seated all the way and that there is no corrosion or debris left in the impeller or seal plate that might prevent the new seal from seating completely. You may add some Blue RTV silicone sealant to help a paper gasket.

   In some pumps where the parts are assembled differently, you follow the same steps. The clamp is removed to disassemble the pump halves, and you must remove the diffuser to get to the impeller. To remove the impeller you can grip it with your hand and twist it off, but the trick with these units is to stop the shaft from spinning as you twist off the impeller. There are air vents in the motor on the end closest to the pump itself. Look in and you will see the motor shaft. Place a flat-blade screwdriver in one of the air vents and wedge it against the shaft to keep it from turning.

   Alternatively, you can remove the end cap and look inside as you twist the impeller. You will see the back end of the shaft, with the start switch attached. Since this switch is fragile, you must remove it (one screw) to access the slotted screw in the back end of the shaft. Place the screwdriver in this screw to keep the shaft from turning as you remove the impeller. Or use a 7/16″ wrench on the back of the shaft.

   Instead of a gasket, some pumps use an O-ring. Clean this and lubricate it before reassemble. If it has stretched and it seems like there is too much O-ring for the channel in the volute, try soaking the gasket in ice water for a few minutes to make it shrink a bit.

   Some pumps use a plastic impeller with a housing that holds half the seal in place. If the pump has run dry and overheated the pot, this housing might be warped and the seal will not fit tightly. The only solution is to replace the impeller. This is a common problem with automatic cleaner pumps, which are not self-priming.

   Remember to use only non-hardening silicone lube like Magic Lube on all pool and spa work. Make Sure not to use Vaseline or other lubricants that are made of petroleum, which eat away some plastics and papers.

   Clogged Impeller?

   When your pressure is high, your filter is dirty, right? When your pressure is lower than normal, your pump basket is dirty. If the basket is clean, yet pressure and flow is still low or surging, you may have an air problem or the impeller may be clogged. Something prior to the filter is obstructed. To unclog an impeller follow these steps:

   1. Shut off power, remove motor and seal plate from pump. Sometimes this is one clamp that holds the motor to the pump, or some pumps have nuts or bolts to remove.
   2. Stand motor on it’s end, remove any diffuser or impeller shroud, and using needle nose pliers or a thin screwdriver, remove the clog. Run some heavy wire through the vanes of the impeller.
   3. Reassemble pump snugly and tightly. Fill pump pot with water. Restart pump. Pressure then should rise.

   Locating an Air Leak…

   Make sure the strainer lid is on tight, with a clean, lubed o-ring. Also check that all plugs are tight. A good trick in locating an air leak is to shut off the motor when it’s under full pumping head pressure, and look for water to spray back out of the void where the air was entering. You have to be quick to catch this spray-back! This void will always be before the impeller. After the impeller is what we call “the pressure side.”  Any leak or void here will leak water out. Any leak or void prior to the impeller (in front of the pump impeller) will draw air in when the pump is on. The pump will “pump” air if it can, it is the path of least resistance. So, your system needs to be almost airtight to run properly. When you find this void, patch with epoxy putty or silicone, or replace the part if needed.

   If that didn’t work, you can do this…buy a Drain King at your local hardware store (or we can send one for $20.95 + S & H). This connects to a garden hose and puts the line under pressure. Putting this in the skimmer, you can turn on the hose and pressurize the line backwards (Also Great for clearing clogged pipes). Remove the pump lid and use a plug at the pump entrance. This will allow pressure to build up in the line and squirt out at the leak. Many suction side leaks found in this manner are then repaired with pool putty, or a more permanent plumbing repair / pipe replacement can be made

   Make sure the water level in the pool is high enough, and that the skimmer weir is not stuck in the up position. Make sure that the incoming and outgoing valves are in the open position. If you suspect a clogged line, you can purchase a Drain King at a local hardware store, or from us (just click on the link) to pressurize the line backwards from the skimmer towards the pump and remove leaf/debris obstructions.

   Replacement of filter pump:

   When replacing your motor, you may opt to install a high efficiency pump (one that is sized correctly for your filter). This will reduce energy consumption and/or increase skimmer suction to make the pool easier to keep clean. Prices vary, however, in the way of example, the 1 hp Hayward SuperPump will cost $299, plus a few plumbing fittings and one hour labor. There may also be electrical costs to upgrade or remove hazards.

   To replace or rebuild your motor?

   For most all rebuilds of your motor, expect charges of $100 to have a motor shop rebuild a motor (which you bring to them and pick up). Theoretically, the motor will last another eight years, but the warranty is only 90 days. Replacing the motor with new would cost $187 for a 1 hp AO Smith motor, plus one hour labor. The warranty on the new motor is 2 – 3 years for most manufacturers. Whether rebuilding or  replacing the motor, the Mechanical Shaft Seal should also be replaced.

   Booster Pumps

   You may have an automatic pool cleaner (ex. a Polaris) that requires a booster pump. It looks different from your filter pump because it doesn’t have a strainer basket. All else is the same, however it should last longer if it’s being used only a few hours per day.

   Never operate the booster pump without the filter operating and providing it a constant flow of water. If you have time clocks, synchronize them to ensure this doesn’t happen. Otherwise, you will probably burn up the shaft seal, and possibly damage the bearings.

   Blower Motors

   If your pool has an attached spa, you may have a forced air blower motor sticking up above water level. This is connected into the spa jets (return lines) to provide turbulence and air therapy.

   If your blower motor is not working or is very noisy, it may need rebuilding or replacing. Warranties and prices are very similar to filter motors.

   Before calling for service on any motor, check that switches on the motor are on, breakers are on, spa side or indoor remote controls are on, and the timer is on.

Filter Pumps, how they work, repair tips and troubleshooting is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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Pool Lights

1968 was the year that the National Electrical Code (NEC) finally decided to include swimming pools in their standards and regulations (article 680). If your pool was built prior to 1968, there likely exists some sub-standard electrical design for your underwater lighting and filter pump. You may wish to update this at some point for safety reasons.

Most local electrical codes require that electrical work be performed by a licensed electrician. The electrician wires it up to the breaker box or sub-panel, and then take it from there to the load.

Remember that water and electricity don’t mix. If you notice anything that “looks” questionable or possibly hazardous, have it checked out immediately.

Underwater Lighting

UW lights have become a common, standard item in all pools. There are many manufacturers of light fixtures on the market, including Pac-Fab (now owned be Pentair), Hayward, American Products and Sta-rite (now owned by Pentair). Smaller, halogen lamps are now being installed, as well as fiber optic decorative lighting that can run above or below water.

Your UW lighting should give you few problems. Most bulbs will burn for 1,000 hours before re-lamping is necessary. The light fixture itself can last several decades, however, corrosive pool chemistry can weaken the fixture and the screws which hold it together, and this may necessitate replacement.

The light fixture is gasket sealed to prevent water from reaching the bulb behind the lens, however water surrounds the entire fixture, keeping it cool. Do not operate the light for more than one second without it being fully submerged. The light requires submersion to prevent overheating.

The fixture sits inside of a “bucket” turned on its side, towards the pool, called the light niche. The niche is larger than the fixture itself to allow room for several feet of cord to be coiled up behind the fixture. The excess cord makes it possible to bring the fixture up on deck for service and repair. The light niche also provides the threaded hole that accepts the screw which holds the light into place. In the back of the niche is where the wiring conduit connects from the fixture to the junction box, located at least 3 ft back and 18″ above water level. The junction box is where the wires from the light (load) connect with the wires from the breaker panel (line). This box should be water and child proof.

Light doesn’t turn on?

Check all breakers, fuses, switches and Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlets. Frequently, a GFCI outlet is wired into the UW light circuit. If the GFCI ‘red button’ has popped out, the power will not continue on towards the light. Ensure all of these switches are in the ON position. If you find that a breaker or fuse or GFCI continues to trip, and the light will not come on, you should call for service at this point to determine where this irregularity is originating. If all switches are on, but we have no light, we’d want to remove the fixture from the niche and inspect the bulb for continuity (Of course, we have turned all switches / breakers OFF at this point). Burnt bulbs are replaced with identical voltage bulbs of either 12 volts or 120 volts. 12 volt bulbs are 300 watts, while 120 volt bulbs are available in either 300 or 500 watts. These are medium based, reflective flood lamps of special design. Do not use your garden variety flood lamp bulb.

Water behind the lens?

This is a startling observation for many to see. Many times the lamp continues to burn even with water surrounding the bulb. If you notice a line of water in the lens, the fixture should be removed. Allow the lamp to dry out and replace the gasket.

You may notice one hot summer evening that the pool light has attracted bugs all the way to the deep end!

To change an underwater light bulb, here’s the process:

1. Shut off power at the breaker, and also at any other switches.
2. It is not necessary to lower the water level. Most all light fixtures have enough cord coiled up inside of the light niche to allow the fixture to be brought up onto the coping stone for repair. Remove the single stainless steel screw at the top of the light (at 12 o’clock). Once this is removed, use a flathead screwdriver to pry the fixture out of the niche. Most fixtures have a tab at the bottom (at 6 o’clock). You may need to pry and wiggle in the direction of the tab to remove the fixture. Once removed, lift it up onto the coping stone.
3. Now we will go inside of the fixture. Use quality tools of proper size, so as not to strip any of the soft metal screws, bolts, etc. On very old fixtures, screws may break easily, or be corroded from years of water and chemical exposure. Old model lights have 8 brass screws around the fixture, which tighten down on tabs. Newer models have a clamp band with only one screw or bolt/nut. Remove the screws or clamp and gently pry the glass lens out of the front of the fixture.
4. After the lens is removed, remove the bulb. Most will twist out counter-clockwise. Some spa lamps or small halogen lamps for pools have small bulbs that you need to push in and then twist to remove. Whatever it’s type, be careful in removing the bulb, old bulbs may break at the base during removal. It’s good practice to cover the bulb with a soft cloth before turning it (counter-clockwise to remove). After removing the bulb, use the cloth to wipe clean and dry all interior surfaces. Thread in a new bulb, specifically made for the fixture. Don’t use something other than the real thing.
5. Before reassembly, turn on power Very Briefly (for 1 – 2 seconds) to check that the bulb/lamp is working.
6. Reassemble the lens onto the fixture, using a NEW lens gasket. This is the rubber gasket around the lens, approx 8″ diameter. Complete the reassembly of the fixture. Make sure screws are very tight. Follow any printed instructions on the lens for proper alignment of lens to fixture.
7. Place light under water and check for air leaks (a few bubbles may come off of the fixture ring). If you have no bubbles streaming out of your gasket, you have a good seal.
8. Replace the fixture into the niche. First coil the cord around the back of the fixture, then locate the bottom tab (on the fixture) and tab receiver (on the niche). Line them up and insert the tab into position, and push the fixture flush into the niche. Then it’s just the “not always simple” task of getting the top screw back in through the light bezel ring and into the threaded hole in the niche. Tighten screw down just snug (not too tight). Test your light again.

If you change the bulb but the light still doesn’t work, use a test meter to check power at the breaker, switches and junction box. (The junction box is usually located off the deck, about a foot high {except on very old pools} near the light. A small box, about 4″ x 3″, with conduit pipes running up into the bottom. Many times they are behind or under  the diving board.)
Some would say, however, that before you change the bulb, you should make sure there is power all the way to the bulb. Because you may not have a bad bulb at all.

Re-lamping the fixture:

Bulbs used in this application are not cheap. They average $25 each! A gasket is around five bucks. Re-lamping is usually done in under an hour.

Replacing the fixture:

If corrosive water has eaten away at the fixture, or the cord and connections have become damaged, or if the junction box is being moved, a new fixture is in order. New fixtures cost about $195. Labor is usually one hour.

Swimming Pool Lights is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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What’s the difference between Millivolt Heaters and Electronic Heaters?

Electronic Heaters have a pilot that lights only when needed. Similar to a modern gas stove, a small, electronic spark ignites the pilot when you turn the gas on. The pilot shuts itself off after the burners are lit. Millivolt Heaters have a Standing Pilot. This means that a pilot burns all the time, like older gas kitchen stoves. Having a Standing Pilot (Millivolt Heaters) obviously wastes a small amount of gas. It can also attract bugs, rodents and snakes seeking out the warmth it produces. Electronic heaters are micro-processor controlled. Circuit boards, similar to those found in modern PC’s are used to control and analyze the heater functions. This also allows for LED indicators for temperature and troubleshooting.

So, Which is Better?

Five to Ten years ago, I would have said Millivolt. Early electronic models had their fair share of irritating problems, coupled with my mental block on working on them. I would profess to love “Mechanical Devices, not Electronic Devices.” But now that my understanding of Electronic Heaters has grown, I would say that they are simple to install, and easier to troubleshoot than Millivolt Heaters. FOR ME!  If you plan to work on this heater yourself, and you understand Millivolt Heaters, and share my earlier mental block on electronic circuitry, then your choice is simple. If you plan to have pool service companies work on it, then I would recommend electronic. In another 10 years, the knowledge base will switch, and pool techs will be scratching their heads trying to figure out how to work on these “confusing” Millivolt heaters. It’ll be “Old School” stuff.

Millivolt vs. Electronic Pool Heaters is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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1. Swimming Pool Heaters

Swimming pool heaters can be the more complicated of pool equipment on you pool equipment pad. Making repairs to pool heaters should be performed by qualified personnel. Gas pool heaters using natural gas or LP (Propane) gas can be hazardous with combustion or exhaust of the pool heater. Hayward pool equipment has created the Pool heater FAQ below to help the pool owner with pool heater repairs and pool heater troubleshooting.  Anthony, Purex, Coates, Hayward, Comfortzone, Jandy, Pentair, Raypak, Teledyne Laars/ Jandy, or Sta-Rite heater.

My heater will not ignite

1. Is the system switch on?
2. Is the thermostat up to temperature?
3. Is the pump running with a clean filter less than or equal to 16 psi on pressure gauge?
4. Is the gas valve in the on position?
5. Is the pilot lit?
6. Is the gas supply valve open?
7. Are all plumbing and filter valves open?
8. If a bypass is installed, is it properly adjusted?
9. Contact a qualified technician if you still cannot find the problem.

The pilot won’t light?

This could be due to low gas pressure, inadequate air supply, or improper venting. Make sure gas is turned on; with propane, make sure the tank has fuel. Also check for water run-off from roof or sprinklers. Check to make sure the heater pilot tubing is intact and not clogged.

Heater won’t reach the desired temperature?

The thermostat may be set too low. If the heat loss is greater than the heater input – the heater may be too small, outside air temperature is too low, or your heater may have inadequate gas supply. You may want to install a solar cover to slow heat loss. All heaters have high limit switches to prevent overheating. A faulty high limit switch could shut off the heater, or the problem could be that the heater is truly overheating, perhaps from improper exhaust.

The heater cycles on and off before it reaches the desired temperature?

Your heater may have inadequate water flow due to a dirty filter, closed valve, external bypass, reversed water connections, or pressure switch out of adjustment. It is also possible that your thermostat is out of calibration or needs replacing.

Why do I need to frequently relight my pilot?

See previous two questions for additional information. Also check for water run off from above or sprinklers directed at heater. A high wind stack may be needed due to heater location.  Millivolt models have a thermocouple or pilot generator that may be faulty or weak. Loose or rusty connections of the thermocouple to the gas valve or loose coil connection, or short in these wires can shut off a pilot.

I hear “clicking” or “sparking,” but my heater will not ignite…..

Review to the pool heater owner’s manual. If you do not find your answer, turn the heater off and contact a qualified service company. Make sure that the gas valves are all in the on position, and if LP (Propane), check the gauge on the tank.

The heater is leaking water…..

The pool heater heat exchanger may be leaking because of chemical or sanitizer damage. The damage may be from winter freeze – usually leaking upon spring start-up. There could be a gasket leaking, or a loose connection to the pressure switch.

The heater appears to leak only when the burner is lit…..

This may be caused by condensation (occurring when heating very cold water); a missing or damaged bypass; or excessive water flow through the heater from an oversized pump. Check the heat exchanger for sooting, and make sure the internal bypass is working. Install an external pool heater bypass if necessary.

Heater top blackened and/or emitting dark exhaust?

Either low gas pressure and/or inadequate air supply and venting, review the installation requirements in the pool heater Owner’s Manual.  Both conditions may need to be evaluated by a qualified service technician. This is called sooting and could lead to other problems.

The heater has damage due to excessive heat. Why?

One, or a combination of the following: low gas pressure, down-drafting, air supply, and venting. The heater may need a high wind stack, if installed near a vertical wall or windy area. Make sure that the heater is installed with proper clearances all around the outside. Pool Heaters can catch adjacent structures on fire.

I have rust returned into my pool?

Sanitizers or chemical imbalance can deteriorate protective coatings on heater components and create rust. Re-balance chemicals and replace damaged components. Make sure any chemical feeders are installed after the heater, and place a check valve between the two to prevent backflow.

My heater whistles…..

Low gas pressure can cause whistling in the burners. Check your Owner’s Guide or contact your installer.

Do Hayward heaters need heat sinks or a fireman’s switch?

No. Hayward heaters cool down immediately after shut down.

What should my heater be set on?

All heaters should be installed on a non-combustible material, such as concrete or block. It must not have any structures above it, if installed outdoors, including tree branches within 4 feet. Consult owner’s manuals for clearances around all four sides of your pool heater.

Can Hayward heaters be installed indoors?

Yes, specific conditions apply. Please consult your owner’s manual for complete details. They must be vented to the outside in a very specific manner, and have enough influent air to combust properly. Improperly installed pool heaters have the potential to cause fatalities from carbon monoxide emissions, or gas explosions.

How much fuel does my heater use?

Propane heaters use one gallon of fuel per hour for each 91,000 BTU’s of heater input.

Example: A 250,000 BTU heater uses: 250,000/91,000 = 2.75 gallon per hour

Natural gas heaters use one therm (100,000) BTU per 100,000 BTU’s heater size. Your gas is usually billed by therms.

How can I save on my heating costs?

1. Purchase an energy efficient model.
2. Use a solar blanket on your swimming pool when not in use.
3. Keep the temperature at the lowest comfortable position.
4. Remember to not turn up the heater to maximum, (it will not heat any faster) But set it at a known setting for your desired maximum temp.
5. Turn heater off or to a low setting during periods of non-use.
6. Wind is one of the largest heat thieves. Fences or shrubbery can reduce the effect that wind will have on pool heat loss.

Other Tips to Economize on Pool Heating – from Teledyne Laars/ Jandy:

1. Keep a thermometer in your pool. It will pinpoint accurately the temperature most comfortable for you.
2. Keep your thermostat at the lowest comfortable setting. Each degree more heat than needed could add more to your monthly fuel cost and use up more energy than necessary.
3. Mark the “comfort setting” on the thermostat dial. This will prevent accidental or careless over-heating and waste of energy.
4. Lower thermostat to 70 degrees when pool is to be unused for three or four days. For longer periods, shut the heater off. You will save money on fuel consumption and help conserve energy.
5. Protect your pool from wind. Wind above 3 to 5 miles per hour can lower the pool temperature substantially. A hedge, cabana or decorative fence can be an effective windbreak.
6. Use a pool cover when pool is not in use. This can reduce heat loss by as much as 50%. If you are vacationing for a couple of weeks or shutting down for winter, turn the heater off completely, including any pilot light.
7. Drain heater completely prior to freezing weather. Freezing water inside the heat exchanger can result in costly repairs.
8. Get a maintenance checkup annually. It’s your best ounce of prevention. Call your Teledyne Laars/ Jandy dealer for a skilled technician to do the job. The cost is minimal and the service will keep your heater working efficiently for many years.

Swimming Pool Heaters is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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Trying to decide on which type of filter to buy?

There are three main types of swimming pool filters, D.E. (which stands for Diatomaceous Earth) {first filter}, Sand {middle filter} and Cartridge {last filter}. Different regions of the country seem to have different preferences; personally my order would have D.E. first, then Sand, then cartridge filters. However, the suitability of a filter to a pool can have more to do with size, than with type. Always go at least one size larger than you think you need. Buy the largest filter you can afford, it’s money well spent.

Even though I have just stated a preference of D.E. filters over Sand over Cartridge filters, I would rather have  a large cartridge filter than a small D.E. filter. So remember, in pool filters, size matters! Many filters installed in the 70’s and 80’s were much too small for the size of pool they filter, and with the deterioration of age are just barely operating. Major manufacturers try really hard to produce no “junk.” So once again, filter size is more important than brand, name, type, color, etc.

Sand filters

The sand in a sand filter (#20 silica sand; 45 – 55 mm) is specially graded to trap particles in the 20 – 100 micron range. As a sand filter collects dirt, its efficiency increases, trapping more dirt. When your pressure gauge shows a reading 8 – 10 lbs. over its clean, start-up reading, it is time to backwash the captured dirt out of the filter.

“They say” that a sand bed should be replaced after seven years. Gradual loss of efficiency may be hard to notice. If your filter requires frequent backwashing, every week or two, the sand bed may be “mudballed”, or it may be “channeled”. It may also “calcify” with calcium deposits. Other water balance problems may also contribute to sand deterioration, but a properly sized filter could go over 10 years between sand changes.

Use of Biguanide chemicals, i.e., Soft Swim or Baquacil require annual cleaning of the sand to prevent it from “gumming-up”. High amounts of bather oils can gum-up a sand bed. And just the years of a pump forcing water over the grains wears away the sharp edges of the sand. Such sand becomes more circular, and traps dirt less efficiently.

Remember that for sparkling water, we need the trio of sanitation, filtration and circulation. If one of these areas is lacking, the water won’t look so hot. So, if you’ve kept very good chemical maintenance and your circulation is good, you may have a filter problem. Is the filter sized properly? Many filters of the 70’s – 80’s were grossly undersized, the trend now in pool filtration is “Go Big Early.”

Adding a small amount of aluminum sulfate or “alum”, through the skimmer will form a gelatinous layer on top of the sand bed, useful in cleaning up an undesirable water condition. You can also add a small amount of D.E. powder or other filter media.

“How and When do I Backwash my Sand Filter”

When the pressure gauge is reading 8 – 10 lbs above the clean, starting pressure (after backwashing), it is time to backwash the filter. This process involves turning a valve so that the water will flow through the filter backwards, flushing out the dirt. Hence the name “back-washing.” Sand filters can have either a push-pull valve (also known as a slide valve) or a multiport valve. The multiport valve has multi-ports on the valve, usually 6 positions:

1. FILTER: Keep it here 99%, except when backwashing, rinsing or wasting
2. RINSE: Use this setting for 20 seconds after backwashing to rinse tank
3. RECIRCULATE: Use this if the filter’s broken; at least you’re circulating.
4. BACKWASH: Use this setting to reverse the flow in the filter and send water out of the waste line. Make sure valves are open or hoses rolled out
5. CLOSED: Put here to close off flow from the pool, usually to work on the equipment. Do not operate pump with valve in closed position
6. WASTE/DRAIN: Another filter bypass setting, but this setting sends the water out of the waste pipe (hose), instead of returning it to the pool. This setting is used to lower pool water level or to vacuum to waste.

So, to backwash a sand filter with a multiport valve;

• Shut off pump motor
• Press down on valve handle, rotate valve from FILTER to BACKWASH position
• Roll out any backwash hose or open any waste line valves
• Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on.
• Watch pressure gauge for backpressure and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly
• After hose fills with water, run for 2 – 3 minutes or until water runs clear
• Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to RINSE position Run on rinse for 15 – 25 seconds.
• Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to FILTER position
• Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose

To Backwash a sand filter with a slide valve;

• Shut off pump motor, roll out backwash hose (if you have it)
• Twist to unlock plunger T-handle, pull / twist plunger upwards 2 – 3″
• Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on
• Watch pressure gauge for backpressure (+ 40 PSI) and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly
• After hose fills with water, run for 2 – 3 minutes or until water runs clear
• Shut off pump motor and push T-handle back down into locked position
• Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose

A properly sized sand filter should, in most cases, be able to operate continuously for a period of 4 weeks between backwashings. A “Filter Run” of less than 4 weeks may indicate sand problems (or sizing problems).

Sand in the pool?

Bad news. If it hasn’t blown in, or been carried in on the feet of swimmers, it’s likely coming from the filter. A broken lateral or standpipe may be the cause. You’ll need to empty the tank, locate and make the repair, refill with fresh sand and test.

Sand bed replacement:

To replace filter sand, you’ll first need to empty out the existing sand. One method is to spread a tarp out beneath the filter drain assembly. Then remove the entire assembly, turn on the pump, and step back! The water pumping through the filter will remove most of the sand out the drain hole. Another method is to remove the drain plug only and allow the filter to drain for several hours or days. Then, remove the top dome or multiport valve.

If you have the Triton style dome on the top of the filter, you’ll need the octagonal dome wrench to remove the dome. Once the dome is removed, gently twist the baffle/pipe out of the way so you can get a scoop to the sand.

If you have a Top Mount Multiport,  you may need to cut some pipes to remove the valve. You can reconnect them later with unions or couplings. Once these pipes are cut, the clamp band connecting the valve to the filter is removed, and the valve pulls straight up and off. Plug or tape or cover the standpipe so you don’t spill sand in it. Then you can use a shop vacuum to suck out the sand, or you can use a small cup to scoop out the sand.

Be very careful as you scoop or suck, not to knock or break the laterals at the bottom of the tank. They can be brittle when the get older, and it may be wise to replace laterals at the time you replace the filter sand. Use a hose to wash out the sand beneath the laterals. When the tank is empty of sand, replace the drain assembly, using silicone sealant on the threads. Then add enough water to cover the laterals, so the new sand pouring in won’t crack them. Again, if you have the top mounted multiport, cover the standpipe opening. If you have a side mounted filter valve, gently push the intake baffle to one side, or wrap the baffle with a small plastic bag to keep the sand from entering the pipe as you pour it in.

Pour it in! Use only specially graded pool filter sand; #20 silica sand, 45 – 55 mm. On top mounted multiport filters, use care to keep the lateral/ hub assembly in the center, and on the bottom of the tank. After each bag of sand is added, make sure it is still centered. It may be useful to have a helper hold the standpipe in place while the sand is added.

Add the recommended amount of sand only; more is not better! If you don’t know this info, contact your dealer or manufacturer. Most tanks are filled only about 2/3 of the way full, to leave enough “freeboard” space on top. When full, lube o-rings and reassemble filter top. Make sure lid is very secure, lids that blow off can be very dangerous. It’s a good idea to replace the o-ring on the filter domes.

When the filter is started up, start up on “RINSE” setting first (if you have a multiport valve). Then backwash and rinse again. If you have a push-pull valve, backwash first. This final step will prevent putting a lot of “sand dust” into the pool after a sand change.

Leaking filter?

Sand filter tanks rarely leak themselves, however leaks often occur in and around the multiport interface. A common complaint is that water is leaking out of the backwash port of the multiport (six position) valve. Slight adjustments of the handle may temporarily solve this problem. A more permanent repair may necessitate replacement of the spider gasket inside of the multiport. You may also have leakage up around the middle of the handle on the valve, which external adjustments rarely fix. This usually requires replacement of a Teflon washer and sometimes the spring as well.

You may have a push-pull valve, or slide valve as it is sometimes called, instead of a multiport valve.  Leaks can occur through the top of the index plate, or out of the backwash line. This is a easy inspection to determine what o-rings need to be replaced. Leaks can also occur at the bulkhead unions where the valve attaches to the side of the filter, or around the threads on a top-mounted multiport. The drain plug can leak if not secured tightly or properly sealed.

Leaking valve repair:

Usually a one hour job, plus internal valve components; gaskets or springs.

Filter replacement?

Well, they don’t last forever. But almost. A new filter may be in order if your current filter is outdated (15 – 20 yrs old) and difficult to use or get parts for. If the filter tank has cracked, usually from freeze damage or possibly from closing off return valves while the pump is running, a new filter is in order. Replacement is usually fairly simple, with just a few plumbing fittings needed.

Sand filter replacement:

Price is size dependent, however, as an example, we sell the Pentair Tagelus TA-60D filter for $294.97.

Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.)

The D.E. filter is the most efficient type of pool filter on the market. It can trap particles down to 3 – 5 microns; well below what the naked eye can see. As with sand filters, the pressure gauge indicates a need for backwashing when it reads 8 – 10 lbs. higher than its clean reading. After backwashing a D.E. filter, a new application of D.E. filter powder is added to the filter by pouring into the skimmer. An annual breakdown of the filter is necessary to thoroughly clean D.E. filter grids.

A D.E. filter requires that the operator (you) add D.E. powder to coat the filter grids inside of the filter tank. This widely available, inexpensive powder is actually the microscopic skeletons of Diatoms, an ancient, sub aquatic creature. Under the microscope, these skeletons appear to be tiny sponges. This is where the dirt gets trapped in your filter. The powder, which is added at your skimmer, dissolves in the pipe on its way to the filter tank. When it reaches the grids, which are covered with a nylon type of fabric, the powder stops, coating the grid. Grids are also called Elements or Septums. The water continues to pass through, first through the powder, then the fabric covered grid. As the water passes through the D.E. and enters the grid it leaves the dirt, trapped in the D.E. powder “cake” or coating.

The D.E. powder is what filters your pool water in a D.E. filter. Do not operate your pump without having the D.E. powder coating the grids, or you will see your pressure rise very quickly, and if left in this manner the grids could become damaged. As the pressure gauge on a D.E. filter increases, flow rate decreases. Eventually the flow rate will allow the water quality to suffer. You will need to backwash the filter to remove the D.E. that is clogged up with the dirt. After backwashing thoroughly, add new D.E. powder to the filter through the skimmer. If using biguanides (Soft Swim or Baquacil) you will need twice annual, very thorough cleaning to prevent it from gumming up. All D.E. filters should have this done at least once per year. Thorough cleaning is accomplished by turning the pump off and draining the filter. Remove the tank top half, and remove the grid assembly. Hose the grid assembly thoroughly. If you want to do an extra good job, after hosing, soak the assembly in a trash can filled with water and a filter cleaner product. (or use TSP {trisodium-phosphate} from the hardware store). Rinse thoroughly before reinstalling grids into tank.

When backwashing a D.E. filter, do the “process” several times. That is, backwash until water runs clear, move the multiport valve to FILTER and run it on filter for a 5 – 10 seconds, and backwash again until it runs clear, etc…do this 2 – 4 times. Remember to always shut off the pump before turning your multiport valve or your push-pull valve. Each time you go through the cycle of filter/ backwash/ filter, you will get more dirt/ D.E. out of the filter, giving you a better, more thorough backwash.

Also important in ensuring an effective backwashing is to make sure skimmer baskets and pump baskets are clean to allow for full flow entering the filter

How do I Backwash my DE Filter?

When the pressure gauge is reading 8 – 10 lbs above the clean, starting pressure (after backwashing), it is time to backwash the filter. This process involves turning a valve so that the water will flow through the filter backwards, flushing out the dirt. Hence the name “back-washing.” Sand filters can have either a push-pull valve (also known as slide valves) or a multiport valve. The multiport valve has multi-ports on the valve, usually 6 positions:

1. FILTER: Keep it here 99%, except when backwashing, rinsing or wasting
2. RINSE: Use this setting for 20 seconds after backwashing to rinse tank
3. RECIRCULATE: Use this if the filter’s broken; at least you’re circulating.
4. BACKWASH: Use this setting to reverse the flow in the filter and send water out of the waste line. Make sure valves are open or hoses rolled out
5. CLOSED: Put here to close off flow from the pool, usually to work on the equipment. Do not operate pump with valve in closed position
6. WASTE/ DRAIN: Another filter bypass setting, but this one sends the water out of the waste pipe (hose), instead of returning it to the pool. Used to lower pool water level or to vacuum to waste

So, to backwash a D.E. filter with a multiport valve;

• Shut off pump motor
• Press down on valve handle, rotate valve from FILTER to BACKWASH position
• Roll out any backwash hose or open any waste line valves
• Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on.
• Watch pressure gauge for backpressure and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly
• After hose fills with water, run for 2 – 3 minutes or until water runs clear
• Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to RINSE position. Run on rinse for 5 – 10 seconds. Shut off pump again, and move handle back to BACKWASH. Turn on pump again until water runs clear. Continue in this fashion 3 – 4 times, alternating between Backwash & Rinse,  to ensure a thorough backwash.
• Shut off pump motor and move multiport valve handle to FILTER position
• Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose
• Add 1 lb D.E. powder per 10 sq ft of filter area. Look on filter tank

To Backwash a DE filter with a slide valve:

• Shut off pump motor, roll out backwash hose (if you have it)
• Twist to unlock plunger T-handle, pull/ twist plunger upwards 2 – 3″
• Open air bleeder assembly on filter, and turn pump on
• Watch pressure gauge for backpressure (+ 40 PSI) and hose for kinks. Be prepared to shut off pump quickly.
• After hose fills with water, run for 1 – 2 minutes or until water runs clear. Shut off and push handle back down. Turn pump on and run in filter position for 15 seconds and then shut pump off and  backwash again for 1 min. Filter again for 15 seconds and another 30 second backwash.
• Shut off pump motor and push T-handle back down into locked position
• Turn pump back on and note lower pressure. Roll up backwash hose
• Add 1 lb D.E. powder per 10 sq ft of filter area. Look on filter tank.

A properly sized D.E. filter should, in most cases,  be able to operate continuously for a period of 4 weeks between backwashings. A “Filter Run” of less than 4 weeks may indicate grid problems (or sizing problems). Filter grid fabric can become clogged with Calcium deposits or oils. After removing the grids from the assembly, you can soak in TSP (trisodium-phosphate) and warm water to remove oily deposits. If you use Baquacil or SoftSwim, and you can soak the grids in a 10% muriatic acid solution for a few minutes followed by a full rinse. TSP soak and Rinse will remove mineral deposits such as Calcium.

D.E. powder in the pool?

You either have holes in the fabric of the grids, or a crack in the manifold that the grids attach to. It can also mean a broken air bleeder tube or assembly. Finally, D.E. in the pool can mean that the multiport or push-pull valve is allowing powder to bypass the filter. You will notice this most when adding new D.E. powder after backwashing, but you can test this at any time. The best method to determine the cause is to remove the grids and clean/ inspect thoroughly.

Filter Grid replacement:

Grids and manifolds vary by manufacturer, and can be expensive. $25 per grid; up to $100 for a manifold. Labor is usually under one hour.

If handy with an awl, torn grids can be sewn instead of replaced.

Poor water Quality?

It could be a problem with your multiport or push-pull valve. The valve could be allowing water to bypass the filter and return to the pool unfiltered. Perhaps you are not running the filter long enough. Perhaps there is not enough D.E. powder in the filter, or too much. You may also need to backwash the filter or remove the grids and clean them manually. Poor sanitation, poor water balance, and pool circulation could be another cause, and it could have nothing to do with the filtering at all. Remember: filtration + sanitation + circulation =

How long should I run my filter each day?

Well, just as much as you need. Careful experimentation will show you when the water quality begins to suffer. Many people with smaller, older equipment (filter/ pump) run their systems 24 hours per day. The average (I would guess) would be about 16 hours. BUT! It depends on your system. Undersized? Old? High pool Use? Large Debris Load? Heavy Sunlight? Any of these factors call for extra filtering. If you’re too frugal with the electricity, you may have to pay more in chemical costs.

Leaking filter?

Most D.E. filters have a belly band clamp with a large O-ring between tank halves. The o-ring can become distended or flattened and may need to be replaced if water is dripping from the center clamp. Caution: Do Not remove the center clamp while the pump is running, and without first releasing pressure inside the tank. You may notice your multiport valve leaking in one or more areas. See sand filter info on previous page. If your push-pull valve is leaking out of the backwash port (where the hose attaches), the plunger either needs replacement, or a new set of o-rings.

Plunger replacement:

Varies by manufacturer. Around $90, plus 1 hour labor.

Filter replacement:

D.E. filters are more expensive than sand filters. You may want to replace if your filter is old and tired, or you may decide to upgrade efficiency from a sand or cartridge filter. Price varies by manufacturer; however, as an example, we sell the Pentair FNSP 48 for $479.97.

Cartridge filters:

Filter of choice for most spas, and many smaller above ground pools, the cartridge filter is enjoying a resurgence in popularity. The cartridge filter element, an aquatic version of the pleated air cleaner in your car, traps dirt and particles of 25 – 100 microns in size. The cartridge is removed from the tank and hosed thoroughly, top to bottom, with a high pressure hose to remove dirt when the pressure gauge rises 8 – 10 lbs. above its clean reading. I know some people that take their cartridges to the local self serve car wash place for cleaning. Each time the filter is cleaned, some of its filtering ability is reduced. The cartridge should be replaced every 2 – 5 yrs, depending on the work it was asked to do. If the filter was a bit undersized, and had some algae every year and lots of tree debris, etc. then it may last only 1 – 2 years. Nicely sized cartridge filters can operate for 6 months between cleanings.

“How do I Backwash my Cartridge Filter?

A trick question. There is no backwash valve on a cartridge filter because today’s pool filter cartridges aren’t built for backwards flow. Instead, the pump is shut off, air bleeder opened, lid removed, cartridge removed, hosed thoroughly top to bottom, and replaced. It’s a bit of a pain to do, but hopefully the filter is sized so that it’s a 1 – 2 x per year job.  Another advantage is that cartridge cleaning doesn’t waste as much water as backwashing.

Soaking the cartridge in a TSP (trisodium-phosphate) or similar solution prior to hosing will improve your cleaning. Do not use TSP if you utilize Baquacil or Soft Swim for sanitation.

Use of a clarifier or Chitin product like Sea-Klear is a great help to a cartridge filter. Some people also increase the filter efficacy by adding a small amount of synthetic filter aid powder (1 – 2 cups) through skimmer. D.E. powder is not recommended by most manufacturers, as it can clog the pores of the cartridge.

Disposal/replacement of the cartridge, its difficulty in maintenance (no backwashing), and its low efficiency are the reasons I don’t recommend these filters for use in most larger swimming pools. But for pools under 30,000 gals., there are some nice filters like the Hayward C-4000 that can really be a great filter.

Filter Cartridge Replacement:

Right off the shelf for $40 – $100, depending on its size. No professional labor needed.

Swimming Pool Filters, Sand, DE, and Cartridge filters is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

Related Swimming Pool Posts

1. Sand Filters, information page
2. Backwash Valves
3. Biguanides to Chlorine