Pool openings in the Northeast US typically range $175-$300. You can often save money by doing some of the work yourself, i.e. removing the cover, or vacuuming the pool.

Here is a list of things you can do yourself to help lower the cost of opening your pool in the Spring:

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Remove, clean, fold and store pool cover.
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Testing water balance; adjusting calcium, Alkalinity and pH levels
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Replacing stored items; ladders, auto cleaner, baskets, plugs, gauges, etc.
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Inspect and test electrical service to pumps, lights, heaters, etc. Load testing.
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Lube plugs, fittings, valves and o-rings.
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Flood lines, prime-up, start-up and adjust filtration equipment.
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Brush tiles and scrub skimmers with cleanser.
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Blow off, then hose pool deck.
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Skim pool surface. Vacuum pool to waste using portable vacuum equipment
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Super chlorinate to breakpoint levels with liquid chlorine.
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Brush pool walls and steps. Re-check chemical levels in 12-24 hrs, adjust as needed.
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Backwash filter if pressure gauge rises 8-10 lbs, or flow diminishes considerably.

Snowbelt

1.
Remove the pool cover:

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Solid Covers:

Use a small cover pump to remove rain and snow melt. As the water is being pumped, “tighten up” the cover by pulling on its edges, so the water gathers into one easily pumped area. A “bag type” leaf net and your pool brush on the pole can be used to remove leaves and debris. After water and debris is removed, drain water bags (or remove whatever is being used to hold down sides of cover). Water bags can be folded or rolled after being hosed clean. Remove cover quickly by fan-folding it into 3 – 5 ft folds on one end of the pool. Take cover to open area where it can be unfolded and hosed clean. A sloping yard or driveway makes this easier. When cover is cleaned, allow to dry or use blower to hasten drying. Fan fold (accordion-style) cover to facilitate its installation in the fall. Roll tightly and wrap with rope or twine to prevent it from unrolling during storage. Place in a dry, rodent free location for its summer storage.

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Mesh Covers:

Use broom, brush, leaf net, hose and/or blower to remove leaves and debris from top and edges of cover. Remove springs from anchors with removal tool. Use 3/4″ pipe to lever springs from anchors, if removal tool cannot be located. Use 1/4″ hex key (Allen wrench) to put anchors into the down position, flush with the deck. It’s good practice to clean with hose and lubricate with a light oil. Fan fold cover (accordion-style) to facilitate its reinstallation in the fall. Use hose, broom or blower to clean off cover as it’s folded. Fold it seam to seam, then roll like a sleeping bag and stuff it into storage bag. Place on chair to dry for a few hours before moving it INDOORS for summer storage. If storing outdoors, hang up off the ground, and / or use moth balls to repel rodents from nesting in the cover.

2.
Remove expansion plugs (Freeze Plugs) from skimmers and wall returns

Put plugs in Ziploc bag and place near cover for use. Discard any that are dry-rotted and/or cracked. Replace any wall fittings.

3.
Reassemble filter, pump, heater, etc.

Replace drain plugs into pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, etc. If above-ground pool, reattach hoses removed at closing. Replace pump and skimmer baskets, pressure gauges, pool ladders, diving boards etc. Use thread sealant such as Teflon tape on all threaded plugs, connections. Do not over-tighten! If your filter is a D.E. powder tight filter, make sure clamp band is tight and properly positioned. (It was probably removed in the fall to have the filter grids pulled out and cleaned with a hose, so make sure it was re-installed correctly) Place filter valve to filter position and open air bleeder (beneath pressure gauge, usually). Open all incoming valves (before pump) and all return side valves (after filter). Lubricate valves and o-rings as needed. Fill pump basket with water from pool or hose. Replace pump lid tightly. Look for leaks out of pump. Double check that all valves and pressure relief orifices are open. Place filter valve in proper position. Slide valves (push-pull valves) should be in the down position on most DE filters and in the up position for Pac-Fab sand filters. Multiport valves should be on the filter position. {Or…the method I use is to start the pump with the valve in the Drain to Waste position, and when water begins to run out the waste line, shut off the pump. Place valve into the Recirculate position and run pump until water flows into the pool. Shut off pump, switch the valve to the Filter position to complete the process.}

4.
Turn on power to pump & start system

Watch pressure on gauge closely with your hand on power switch! Turn off if pressure rises above normal range; usually above 30 psi. Recheck that all return side valves are open. If no pressure builds up at all, and pump is not pumping, shut off power after 1 minute. Repeat priming process mentioned before. If pump still won’t prime up, try closing main drain valve, if present, and starting off the skimmer alone. If pump still won’t catch prime after 5 or so attempts, check incoming pipes for air leaks. Repair as needed. Add 1 lb of DE powder per 5 sq. ft of filter area into the skimmer (only if you have a DE filter, of course). Do this quickly, within 2 minutes of starting filter. If you have a cartridge filter replace cartridge element every 2 years. Sand filters should have their sand changed every 5 years.

Once system is started, adjust valves and return fittings for proper flow. Check for leaks around pump and filter; repair as needed. Note start-up pressure on filter gauge. When psi is 10 lbs above this number, backwash the filter. Empty pump basket also at this time, or earlier if you notice a drop in filter pressure. If you have a heater, follow pilot lighting and test firing instructions, usually printed on back of front heater door. Operate to test and adjust all other equipment.

5.
Equipment inspection, Safety inspection

Spring opening time is ideal for annual preventative maintenance steps such as cleaning, lubricating, inspecting and replacing components in all of your system equipment. Consult your owner’s manual and give everything a good inspection. Look for and correct hazardous electrical conditions, such as broken conduit or connectors, lack of proper grounding or bonding, wires exposed to weather, etc. Inspect pool for tripping and slipping hazards. Check again for pressure leaks which may result in pipes or equipment blowing apart. Note water level and watch the pool for leakage during the following few days.

6.
Clean pool

Skim pool, vacuum pool, brush pool. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best, also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves/debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, Vacuum Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. To do this, you may need to fill pool to the very top, so you can waste 1-3″. Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. Brush the pool thoroughly.

7.
Check and Balance Chemistry

Use a good quality pool water test kit. Replace test kit reagents every spring (annually). Follow pool water test instructions carefully to obtain accurate results.

Alkalinity first. If below the range of 80 – 120 ppm, add Total Alkalinity Increaser (Sodium Bicarbonate or baking soda) at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gals to raise Alkalinity levels 10 ppm. Calcium level should be 180 – 220 ppm. Add Calcium Hardness Increaser (Calcium Chloride) at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gals to raise Calcium levels 5 ppm. Test pH level after water has circulated 8 hrs. pH level should be 7.4 – 7.6, add pH Increaser (soda ash or sodium carbonate) if the water is acidic/ corrosive (below 7.4). Add pH Decreaser (muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate) if water is basic/ scaling (above 7.6). A good test kit will allow you to perform an acid demand or base demand test to determine exact amounts of acid or base needed (demanded). A clarifier may be used to help filter efficacy. After balanced chemicals have been circulated for 8 hrs, shock or super-chlorinate the pool. Add granular Shock Treatment (Calcium Hypochorite) to pool at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gallons, or use Clorox Bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite) at a rate of 5 gals per 10,000 gallons/pool water. Cyanuric Acid levels should be tested if chlorine is used (outdoor pools only). Add CYA (Conditioner or Stabilizer) to raise if Cyanuric Acid levels are below 30 – 50 ppm.

Always read instructions on packaging for proper handling, treatments and application of the pool chemicals. Distribute them broadly and never mix chemicals. Brushing pool after adding chemicals is helpful to distribution. Re-test water daily and readjust if needed. Backwash filter after 24 hrs. If algae is still present, re-shock pool, or add “kill” dosage of quality algaecide. Your pool is ready for use when chlorine level drops below 3.0 ppm, and water is clear. It may be a good move to have an annual check-up to your pool by a pool professional, which is why many people use pool companies to open the pool. If there is a pool store nearby, you should at least take a water sample in to be tested by another test kit.

Sunbelt

If you didn’t really winterize the pool, but rather reduced the amount of filter time and attention you gave the pool, then you can probably skip items 1-3 above. But follow 4-7 to keep things sanitary and working safe and properly. Again, consider hiring a professional pool company, at least once annually to double check your work and spot problems or maintenance items you may have missed.

Spring Swimming Pool Openings is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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1. Pool winterization. Tips on closing a swimming pool.

O-Rings…

There are many items worth checking through out the season. Simple checks are as common as making sure the pump lid o-ring is properly lubricated. Products like Jack’s Lube, Liberty Lube and Magic Lube can give the proper lubrication to o-rings to help maintain longer life of the o-rings.

Pump Baskets…

Another thing that should be checked is your pump basket for cracks, and splits. A cracked pump basket can allow debris to clog your impeller. This can cause loss of flow, that can lead to poor filtration, and other water clarity problems.

D.E. Filters…

For D.E. filter owners, it is a good practice for you to clean the filter grids thoroughly mid season. Opening the filter and removing the entire grid assembly and hosing off all the D.E. from the grids is a wise move. During regular backwashing you get about 80% of the D.E. out, so if 20% is left that can add up to a lot of extra D.E. in your filter. With too much D.E. in the filter, the grids can bridge together and cause high filter pressure and poor filtration.

Ladders and Diving Boards…

It is VERY important to check your ladder, handrail, and diving board bolts and hardware. When the bolts are not tightened properly it can be dangerous, and cause injuries. If you have a diving board, always check it for cracks and rusty bolts. Also check your ladder and handrail bolts. It is important that they are tight. Make sure the ladder or handrail do not rock. If this happens, it is wise to replace the hardware to prevent injury.

Equipment Area…

You may want to check your equipment area for leaves, grass and mulch. It may look nice, but heavily landscaped equipment areas cause problems. If equipment is covered with various types of debris it can cause the pump to over heat and wear out or burn up.

Electric…

Check to make sure all wire connections and conduits are intact. If it is split or cracked, electrical tape is not the proper repair, have them replaced. Unsafe electrical conditions can cause injury, or even death. Almost all electrical work should be done by a licensed professional.

Skimmer Baskets…

Another area you will want to check is the skimmer baskets. Check for cracks and splits. This can cause unwanted debris in the pump basket. Also check the skimmer housing for cracks. Most small cracks can be repaired before they crack completely and need to be replaced. This is a VERY costly repair.

Safety Covers…

For those of you that have safety covers, such as Loop-Loc safety covers, you should check your anchors to make sure they thread out, or pop-up properly. Also check to see if they are still secure in the concrete or wood deck. If the anchors are not anchored properly have them re-secured as soon as possible.

In-Floor Cleaning Systems…

On in-floor cleaning systems, at the distribution system, there is an in-line filter. It is located at the union going to the unit. This filter should be checked and cleaned regularly. If it is clogged, it can cause the in-floor system to not work properly.

Heaters…

Pool owners with heaters should test the heater from time to time if it is not being used. Not only to make sure it is working, but to prevent rodent infestation. These pesky critters can do a lot of damage to heaters. Some desert regions even go as far as doing rodent proofing around the pool area.

Auto Fills…

It is wise to check your auto fills from time to time. Make sure the float operates properly, and shuts off at the appropriate level. When these floats malfunction they will over flow your pool, and raise your water bill. Better safe than sorry!

Seasonal Swimming Pool Check Ups is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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2. Spring Swimming Pool Openings
3. Pool winterization. Tips on closing a swimming pool.

My pool has a bathtub ring…

Floating oils, dirt & waste can combine to form a scum line around the pool; this is why tile, an easily cleanable surface, is placed at water level around the perimeter of the pool. There are many tile cleanser products available which are applied with a scrubbing pad or brush and a little elbow grease. Abrasive cleaners work well, but should be avoided in vinyl lined pools, or pools using products such as Baquacil. On vinyl pools use a vinyl cleaner such as Armor All Cleaner (not conditioner), and on Baquacil treated pools, use a cleanser made without chlorine.

Cleaning the scum inside of the skimmer frequently will help to keep the tile cleaner, as scum sticks itself to clean plastic. Using enzyme products can reduce or eliminate the amount of attention to the scum line as the work to “eat” scum producing substances.

The floor of my pool is covered in leaves…

Put on your back brace, heavy leaf removal can be hard work. At this stage, vacuuming through the skimmer or using automatic pool cleaners are very ineffective methods; both will clog up too quickly. The method of choice for the pool janitor is using a leaf rake attached to a telescopic pole. Slowly push the leaf rake along the floor, scooping up leaves into the bag. Work the pool in sections, trying not to create leaf-stirring currents. It takes practice and a strong back, but it can be very effective.

Another method is the use of a Leaf Bagger, a product by Jandy Industries. Attached to a telescopic pole and a garden hose, the Leaf Bagger uses venturi action to suck leaves up into a large attached bag as you roll the unit over the leaves. It’s slow going, but you won’t have to stop to empty the bag too often.

My pool always has !@#$%* floating on top…

Firstly, you want to check the influent valving before the pump. The pool janitor recommends that the skimmer pull in about 75% of the total flow into the pump. For example, if your pool has two influent valves, a main drain and a skimmer, close the main drain halfway while leaving the skimmer valve fully open. If your pool has an attached spa, crack the spa drain valve open slightly, or leave it closed altogether.

If you haven’t purchased a leaf rake, or a “drag bag”, as I sometimes call them, and are holding on to that flat “dip & flip” net that your builder gave you; you are creating your own hell. I strongly encourage the purchase of a nice leaf rake. There are also chemical products which are used to keep surface tension high, moving small debris to the sides of the pool. Another possible problem could be the condition of the weir in the skimmer; you know, that flapper gate thing. Make sure it is operating properly so that it creates a draw or “waterfall” into the skimmer basket. Also check that the water level is not so high that it is above the opening of the skimmer.

Lastly, you may need to trim some of those trees and bushes near the pool. My pool, for example, was specifically built with no vegetation anywhere within wind shot!

What about automatic cleaners?

Automatic cleaners are terrific time-savers, and they also help to distribute and circulate the water while (some of them) decreasing the work load required of the filter. There is a wide range of cleaners available, for all types of pools and budgets. Cleaners run from $99.99 to $2,999.99. The more expensive models will vacuum more debris, more efficiently and without compromising the filter system.

Do I need to brush my pool regularly?

Your pool brush attaches to the telescopic pole, and is most commonly used to brush algae off of the walls. To quote the Pool Janitor; “Plaster pools like to be brushed…” Brushing your pool will keep dirt from occupying the small pores and starting small organic farms. Steel bristled brushes, called algae brushes, are very effective on, you guessed it, algae. Do not use a steel brush on a vinyl lined pool.

Done regularly, brushing can also reduce the time spent vacuuming. Brush from the shallow end towards the deep end in overlapping strokes. Circle the pool towards the main drain, and much of the dirt will be swept up into the filter in this manner.

How do I vacuum my pool?

Unless you have an automatic cleaner, an in-floor cleaning system or an automatic cover, or sometimes even if you do…you’ll need to manually vacuum the debris. And here’s how…

Roll your vacuum hose straight along the length of the pool. Attach one of the cuffed ends onto your vacuum head which is attached to your telescopic pole. Extend the pole and place the head (with the hose attached) into the water so that it rests on the floor of the pool. Point the head across the pool so that it doesn’t roll down the slope towards the deep end and prop the pole up against the pool’s edge.

From the point where the hose surfaces, begin pushing the hose straight down into the water, hand over hand, until you reach the other end. This is filling the hose up with water so there is no air in it which may cause difficulties for the pump when you attach the hose to the skimmer. Another method of “priming the hose” is to hold the cuffed end firmly over a return fitting to force the air out of the end attached to the vacuum head.

Once the hose is primed, remove the skimmer lid and the basket and stick the hose end into the hole at the bottom of the skimmer. If it sucks it in tightly, great. If not, you may need a threaded hose adapter to achieve a tight fit. Now, the suction that was at the hole is now at the vacuum head. Do not lift the head out of the water with the hose attached, or you will fill the hose with air, losing prime, and possibly drawing air into the pump.

Roll the vacuum head on the floor, over the debris, and VOILA!, you’re vacuuming. The suction will gradually decrease as the pump basket fills with vacuumed debris. When the pressure gauge drops and/or suction is sufficiently decreased, stop the pump and empty the basket. If pressure rises significantly, stop the pump and backwash the filter. Continue in this manner until the pool is clean.

I get no suction when I try to vacuum…

Most systems require adjustment to the valving to increase flow in the line through which you are vacuuming. You may want to close all the valves except the one on the line you are vacuuming through. On some systems, closing too many suction valves will cause the pump to cavitate, which occurs when it is starved for water. If the pump begins to shudder and make interesting noises, open the valves until this ceases.

If your suction still sucks, check that the filter is clean and the pump basket has been cleaned. Before vacuuming debris into the pump basket, always make sure the basket is locked into place properly so that debris cannot bypass it and clog the impeller.

My pump loses prime when I try to vacuum…

If you notice that your pump begins to draw in air when you connect the hose into the skimmer, possibly drawing in so much air that the pump loses its prime of water, it probably originates from an old, dry rotted hose with holes in it, or a cavitating pump drawing air in through the plumbing or valving.

To check the hose, hold one end tightly against your thigh while you make a tight seal with the other end around your mouth. Blow into the hose; you should feel very strong resistance. If you can blow easily, the hose has one or more holes or splits in it, and you may be able to hear the air being drawn through when it’s hooked up for vacuuming.

When a vacuum hose is hooked into the skimmer and perhaps some valves are closed to increase suction, we are increasing the “vacuum pressure” in the line, creating a front pressure on the pump. This can cause the pump to draw air in places it normally wouldn’t under lower pressure. This situation should be corrected by locating the air source and making appropriate repairs. (Repair info, see pumps)

When I vacuum, the dirt passes right through…

When vacuuming fine, silty dirt or debris, you may notice a cloudy stream of dirt coming back into the pool via the return. This can continue slowly, long after you stop vacuuming, and can create a frustrating cycle for the pool janitor at your pool. More common in sand filters than in other types, the dirt can be pushed right through the filter, especially one which may need a sand replacement. Indeed, this situation may indicate internal filter problems. It may also indicate a problem with the filter control valve. Old, loose multiport or push-pull valves can allow water to bypass the filter and return to the pool unfiltered. For more info on valves, click on link.

Another possibility is that the pump is oversized for the filter, and is pushing the water so hard, it pushes dirt right through the filter medium. A sand filter actually works a little better when it’s a little dirty; the added dirt helps to trap more dirt, so don’t backwash prior to vacuuming a pool with a sand filter. You may also use filter aids, added through the skimmer, which provide a gelatinous layer on top of the sand bed to help trap dirt. Another tip is to vacuum to waste, especially if the debris is a fine silt that can clog the filter quickly. To do this, overfill the pool first, and set the multiport valve to the ‘Drain’/ ‘Vacuum to Waste’ position. Roll out the backwash hose, and vacuum the dirt (and water) right out of the pool…to waste.

My coping and deck have become discolored…

Leaves and dirt may stain concrete surfaces or, after removing the winter cover, you may see a pronounced color difference. Pressure washing can remove these soils and restore original brightness to concrete and coping stones. A light acid washing on the coping stones also works very well, and algae or mildew can be lifted by scrubbing in a paste of calcium hypochlorite. Read all precautions before working with these dangerous chemicals in this manner.

My tiles have crusty white deposits…

Called efflorescence, this calcium deposit usually originates from grout or setting mortar. To remove, scrape it off the tile/wall, and/or acid wash it. There are products available such as CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust remover), which can be purchased at your local hardware store, will work well for such tasks. Another method for removing calcium deposits is the pumice stone. Pumice is a light porous glassy lava stone that can be rubbed over a pool stain to remove it. You can get a pumice stone that can attach to your tele-pole or a pumice stone that has a handle you can swim with. Works great on cement stains, berry stains and paint.

My plaster is stained…

Dirt, leaf tannins, rust and other minerals can stain the finish of your plastered pool. If the stain is organic; left from a leaf or acorn for example, a small amount of granular chlorine added at that location and allowed to settle on the stain will usually remove it instantly. Other non-organic stains will not be removed by chlorine. Do not place chlorine tablets directly into the pool…they will stain and etch the plaster.

If chlorine doesn’t work, acid usually will. Draining and acid washing will remove a thin layer of plaster (and stains), exposing fresh, new looking plaster beneath. A No-Drain acid wash can also be performed, with varying results. For localized stains , a stain master tool can be used to deliver acid directly to the stain. Stains can also be sanded with pumice stones or wet/dry sandpaper.

The POOL JANITOR, FAQ on pool cleaning topics is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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1. Pool Cleaning Equipment

Snowbelt

1.
Balance the water chemistry:

Approximately 3 – 7 days prior to closing the pool, adjust your water balance within the ranges below:
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pH: 7.2 – 7.6
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Alkalinity: 80 – 120 ppm
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Calcium Hardness: 180 – 220 ppm

Then, shock the pool with a Chlorine Shock or a Non-Chlorine Shock, at least 1lb per 10,000 gallons (follow package directions). Allow the chlorine level to return to 1.0 – 3.0 ppm before adding any winter algaecide and your pool cover. Chlorine tends to break down both algaecides and [floating] pool covers.

2.
Remove skimmer baskets, wall fittings, cleaners, solar blankets, ladders from the pool.

Put these in a safe location during the winter. Don’t coil pool cleaners hoses tight.

3.
Lower water level in pool.

Using the filter pump, or a submersible pump, lower the level 12″ – 18″ below the skimmer for mesh covers, and 3″ – 6″ below the tile for solid, floating covers. If you are using an Aquador skimmer cover on aboveground or inground pools for some vinyl lined pools, the water level will not need to be lowered.

4.
Drain all pumping, filtering, heating and chlorinating equipment.

Every pump, filter, heater and chlorinator has drain plugs to allow water to drain out. All water must be drained or blown out or it will freeze and crack. After draining, D.E. filter grids or Cartridge filters should be removed and cleaned thoroughly. If the filter and pump is small enough to remove it and store it indoors, this may be desirable. If not, using a small amount of air from a shop vacuum, compressor or Mighty Vac is good to blow out any water that may still be in the equipment.

5.
Lubricate

Fall closing of the pool is a good time to lubricate the pump lid o-ring o-rings with Magic Lube. If you have a push-pull valve (also known as a slide valve) on the filter, lubricate it’s o-rings as well. If you have a gas heater with cast iron plugs, lubricate these threads or leave the plugs in after draining to prevent rusting.

6.
Clean pool

Skim pool, vacuum pool, brush pool. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best. Also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves/debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, Vacuum Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. Brush the pool thoroughly. The pool should be as clean and clear as possible before covering.

7.
Winterize the plumbing to and from the pool

If you have an inground pool, you should blow out the lines using a Mighty Vac to blow air from the skimmer, through the equipment, and back to the pool. Then plug the lines at the pool using expansion plugs. If you don’t blow the lines, add Swimming Pool Antifreeze into the line (follow package directions). Above ground pools usually just need to disconnect the hoses to and from the pump and filter, and plug the wall outlets.

8.
Add winterizing algaecide and other floaters.

Remember not to add algaecide and shock at the same time. This tends to result in the chlorine breaking down the algaecide. High chlorine levels can also be harsh to floating solid pool covers. For winter chemical kits, click here.

9.
Cover the pool.

A tight fit of your pool cover is essential. Your cover should not have holes or gaps where leaves and debris may enter the pool. A mesh safety cover provides the highest protection and safety. Solid pool covers are not safe and will require a cover pump or siphon to remove rain water and snow melt. Water Bags or AquaBloks are used to secure an inground solid pool cover. Above ground pool covers use a cable/winch device to secure the cover around the pool. Air Pillows are used in above ground pools to absorb the expansion of ice inside the pool. In areas of high wind, an above ground pool owner will find wall bags or cover seal useful products. A leaf net is very useful if you have a lot of trees surrounding your pool.

Sunbelt

In areas where it rarely gets below freezing temperatures, many people simply reduce the amount of filtration time per day, and also will find that the pool needs fewer chemicals. Covering the pool, even if not winterizing, will reduce cleaning and chemical and filtering demand even further.

Pool winterization. Tips on closing a swimming pool. is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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1. Top Five Winter Swimming Pool Cover Care Tips
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It used to be that all pools built had the expansion joint between the perimeter coping and the pool deck caulked or filled with elastomeric sealant 30 days after the concrete was poured. This was holding up the checks to the builders, I was told, so they sort of stopped mentioning it.

It is well worth mentioning. The expansion joint is an important interface between the pool and the deck. These two independent structures need to remain independent. Keeping debris out of the joint ensures that the joint is “true” and the two structures are not in contact with each other. When they do come in contact, the pool may develop a crack in the tile, which is usually an indication that the “beam” has cracked all the way through. The beam is defined as the top 6 or 8 inches of the pool wall which holds the tile & coping. Beam damage gets worse with time, eventually crumbling, requiring beam reconstruction. To avoid this costly expense, caulk those joints! Caulking also keeps out water which can freeze and expand. This can damage the coping, beam and eventually, the tile.

A good caulk job starts with good surface prep. The sides of the joint must be clean, dry, rough and solid. Backer rod foam should be placed in the joint (don’t use sand) to give the caulk something to sit on top of. The joint is taped off to keep things neat, and caulk is shot or troweled into the joint to a depth of 3/8 – 1/2″. The caulk should be an elastomeric sealant, suitable for outdoor use. Deck-o-Seal and Vulkem are two popular brand names. Tape is removed before caulk sets. Replace or repair caulking annually if it cracks or pulls away from either side.

Prices for professional expansion joint caulking run $5.00 – $8.00 per linear foot. Add up the perimeter of the pool to figure your price. The variance depends on the width of the joint, which is usually 1/2″ – 1″ or regional differences. Price includes full prep, backer rod, caulking and finishing.

Expansion Joint Caulking around swimming pools is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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Also called a drain & clean, an acid wash becomes necessary if the pool has turned into the “black lagoon”. This may occur if the winterizing process is not done properly, or if the pool has been stagnant for a period of time so that algae has taken over. If you notice scaly, man-phibian creatures splashing around out back, it’s probably time to drain & clean.

Our general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is: if you can see the bottom of the pool (the floor) then you can bring it back with chemicals, labor and filtering. If the floor is not visible, the cost of the chemicals and labor will generally be greater than the acid wash charge, and take much, much longer. Also, extensive algae blooms will stain plastered pools, making an acid wash desirable.

An acid wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster, exposing fresh plaster beneath. Therefore, it is ill-advised to make it an annual custom, which will accelerate the need for re-plastering. Most plaster coats (sometimes called whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2″, so a few careful acid washes should not hurt.

You may also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, but just to bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits, chlorine stains, even dirt stains…an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement.

If your pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just bloom very easily….changing the water and acid washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer.

Acid is a dangerous substance. Pool company personnel are specially trained in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus during the acid wash. To protect our environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with soda ash prior to its being pumped to a safe location.

If you decide to drain and clean your own pool, make sure that the hydrostatic relief plugs are pulled as soon as possible, and that the water is pumped to a distant location, or into a storm drain. You may also need to check with local water authorities for waste water discharge regulations.

AS you drain the pool, wash it down (scrub if necessary) to remove all algae and leaves. Bag up all leaves and debris in the pool’s bottom. When the pool is clean and empty, you can begin to acid wash the plaster. Put on protective clothing and rubber boots, goggles and wear a breathing mask designed for acid fumes.

Add 1 gallon acid to 1 gallon water in a flower watering can (Always add acid to water, never the other way around). Wet down the wall with a hose. Keep the hose(s) running at all times, without a nozzle on it. Pour the acid/water mixture down the wall, from top to bottom, one 10 foot section at a time. Do not allow the acid to sit on the plaster for very long. Usually 30 seconds is long enough. Use an acid brush to scrub the surfaces and move the acid around. Rinse quickly and thoroughly.

Make sure acid is rinsed completely, as it will continue to etch the plaster. Also try to prevent the acid from wearing a channel path from shallow end to deep end. This can create a worn stripe on the floor.

If the 50/ 50 mixture isn’t strong enough, you can increase the acid strength or the hang time (before rinsing), or scrub harder. Usually pools are acid washed twice with the same strength mixture. Remember that you don’t want to damage or “burn” the plaster.

After the acid wash, the bottom of the pool will be filled with a foamy, acid puddle. This needs to be neutralized before pumping out. Use 2 lbs of soda ash per 1 gallon of acid used. Broadcast the ash over the puddle while stirring with a pool brush on a pole. Use a small submersible pump with a hose to pump out the remaining acid water. Be careful where you pump it to. Even if properly neutralized, it may destroy plants or kill fish, frogs, etc. Rinse the bowl again, and re-pour the bowl of the deep end to clean up well around the drain, being careful not to burn the plaster too much.

Don’t rush the job and be safe. The fumes can be very strong, and very dangerous. Be sure to wear a respirator that will block muriatic acid fumes, goggles or safety glasses and protective clothing. Wear old shoes, or rubber boots. Spray off before exiting the pool. Transporting the acid from the store to the house can be hazardous also. Secure the load in the vehicle. Always have a second person nearby when acid washing the pool. If acid drops enter the mouth or eye, rinse with the hose for 15 mins, without a nozzle on it. Acid on the skin won’t usually burn too much, just rinse quickly, for 30 seconds.

It is advised that you pay a service company to perform this for you.

If your pool is vinyl lined, acid is not used. Detergents, conditioners and good ‘ol elbow grease will remove the “slime”. The liner must then be “reset” with a vacuum to ensure proper fit during filling. Liner pools are normally not drained completely if it can be helped. There can be problems getting the liner to reset properly, and there is the rare danger of the walls collapsing.

Complete drain & clean charges average $600. Higher costs may be seen for large amounts of debris in the pool, excessive neglect, or larger sized pools. Lower costs will be realized for clean or empty pools, or localized acid washings. If your water is from a well, you may elect to refill the pool with trucked – in water. Expect to pay about $150 per 5,000 gallons. If you refill from the hose; water costs are a few dollars per thousand gallons. Contact your water authority to let them know you are filling the pool and they may not charge you for the sewer, only the water portion of the bill.

How to acid wash a swimming pool is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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Along with the joy, excitement and long lost relatives that come with pool ownership there are also the maintenance challenges. There are many tools and items available to make your pool owning experience less troublesome. Even if you have an automatic cleaner, you will need the basic equipment. Telescopic pole, skim nets, pool brushes and a test kit are a must for any pool owner. The following is a glossary with descriptions of swimming pool and spa cleaning equipment.

Telescoping Pole

The first thing you need. Tele poles, as they are called, come in a variety of lengths and quality. The best ones are made from fiberglass, but most are aluminum. They usually extend and then twist lock in place. Most tele-poles have 2 holes at the end that are designed to accept a wide range of accessories that we will discuss below.

Vacuum Heads

The easiest way to make a dirty pool look good is a good vacuuming. All pools need to be vacuumed on a regular basis. The vacuum head attaches to the pole, and then a vacuum hose is attached to the vacuum head. The pole and vacuum head are then lowered into the pool. Click onto “How to Vacuum My Pool” for more information. There are two different types of vacuum heads. One has wheels and is weighted for concrete pools (left). The other is designed for vinyl lined pools, and has brushes instead of wheels (right).

Vacuum Hose

In order to vacuum debris from the pool walls and floor, you will need a vacuum hose. The vacuum hose connects to the vacuum head and telescoping pole (both above). Then, lowered into the pool. You then need to fill the vacuum hose with water, and then plug the end into the skimmer suction hole or a dedicated vacuum line. The water and debris are pulled into the filter pump basket via the swimming pool vacuum hose. After you vacuum, you will need to clean the basket and backwash the filter. For more information, Click Here.

Leaf Traps

The leaf trap is a canister that is placed at the end of the vacuum hose just before the pool skimmer. Inside the canister is a large basket that will trap the leaves and debris before the “pool trash” gets to the pump. Great for leaves, acorns, pebbles and palm tree debris.

Skimmer Nets

The most popular pieces of equipment around the pool are the skim net (left) and leaf rake (right). The skim net is a flat mesh net that attaches to the tele pole. It should be used on a daily basis to remove debris floating on the pool surface before it can sink to the floor. The leaf rake is also a mesh net, but is much deeper. Great for scooping debris from the pool floor for a quick cleaning before guests arrive for instance.

Pool Brushes

One of the most overlooked maintenance steps of pool care is brushing. Swimming pools should be brushed at least once per week. Brushing removes algae and other films and dirt on pool walls and pool floors that can’t be removed by vacuuming. A weekly brushing will avoid “slimy” walls and slick film that is common with pools and spas. There are several types of pool brushes. Stainless steel is perfect for plaster or concrete pools. Stainless brushes should not be used on vinyl pools. Plastic bristle brushes can be used on any type of pools, and are ideal for above ground and vinyl pools. There are also brushes designed for getting into pool corners and steps. Don’t forget to brush your pool weekly!!

Leaf Bagger

One of the best inventions for swimming pool cleaning since the telescopic pole is the Leaf Bagger. Sometimes called the Leaf Master, The Leaf Bagger is a jet style vacuum that uses water pressure from your garden hose to create a Venturi affect. The high pressure water pushes the debris into a large bag. The leaf bagger is ideal for a quick spot clean or cleaning a pool floor full of leaves. Available with a leaf  bag, or a very fine mesh bag.

Stain Master

The Stain Master is a siphon driven device that can siphon muriatic acid from a bottle on the pool deck to a stain on the pool surface. Sometimes called the Acid Wand. Perfect for small localized stains. Rust stains, leaf stains, acorn stains. Read directions, and follow all safety guidelines.

Pumice Stone

Another method for removing localized stains on concrete pools is the pumice stone. Pumice is a light porous glassy lava stone that can be rubbed over a pool stain to remove it. You can get a pumice stone that can attach to your tele-pole or a pumice stone that has a handle you can swim with. Works great on cement stains, berry stains and paint.

Tile Brushes

A clean tile band is a very important part of the way your pool looks. As part of your weekly maintenance schedule, you need to scrub the tile band with tile cleaner and a non abrasive brush. Tile brushes come in a variety of and shapes, or you can just use a plastic bristle brush.

Pool Cleaning Equipment is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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