Valving and plumbing confusing?

Some pool plumbing can take confusion to new heights. If your pool was built before the mid eighties, it’s probably time to modernize. The Jandy Valve revolutionized pool plumbing with its three-way butterfly valve. It allows for consolidation of several leaky, hard to turn gate valves into one simple operation. This makes it possible to reduce the number of valves and prevent pipes from going every which way.  Eventually, every pool needs to have the suction side (before pump) valves and the pressure side (after the filter) valves replaced. At least every 20 years.

Once you understand the flow and name of each pipe above the ground,  label with permanent marker or fingernail polish. Names and arrows. Don’t be afraid to make other notes, on pump, filter, gauge, timeclock, etc…

If you live in the sunbelt, particularly the Southwest, aboveground pipes are painted to protect the PVC from the harsh sun. In the snowbelt, pipes, valves and equipment is winterized to protect from ice expansion.

Jandy valves and Push-Pull Valves should be lubed every year. Use Teflon based lube, like Magic Lube, for Jandy Valves, and Silicone based lube, like Magic Lube II, on Push Pull Valve o-rings.  These o-rings are lubricated by removing the “plunger” from the valve body, sometimes forcefully done, lubing heavily and re-inserting. Jandy Valves, “Grey,” have grease caps that can be filled with lube, or the 8 screws can be removed (and must on early “White” Jandy Valves), and the diverter face heavily lubed. “Black” Jandy Valves are “never-Lube”, but a little never hurt….

Backwash Valve Leaking?

Multiport valves or push-pull valves have a port on them where backwash water exits. These are used on sand and D.E. filters. If you have a leaking push-pull valve (also called a slide valve), chances are you just need to replace an o-ring on the plunger. If your multiport (usually 6 position) valve is leaking out the waste port (and possibly making a coiled blue snake of hose), then you may have a need for spider gasket replacement. First shut off the pump and try moving the valve handle slightly which may reset the gasket or flush out debris. Sometimes, you can kind of “reset” the valve by jiggling the handle. Eventually, you’ll need to replace the gasket, or the entire valve (a much easier job). If you need valve parts, go to our valve replacement parts page. If the multiport leaks not out the waste line, but up and out, from around the valve handle, then this indicates a need to replace the spring and/or Teflon washer.

Air getting into system?

Small leaks in underground suction piping can result in a loss of pressure and air being drawn in where water should flow. If your pool was built using “Black Poly” piping or flexible PVC underground, it’s especially likely that you will experience some problems with this at some point. But usually the air leak is found to be something simple and above-ground.

The pump is meant to operate air free. After some time, you may notice air in the basket, especially if you have a clear lid to observe such things. This can reduce filtering efficiency, allow dangerous air to build up in filter, and sometimes prevent your pump from catching prime (being able to move water). The problem is usually located around the pump, aboveground. Occasionally, we have to look underground for the source of the air. Sometimes air in the pump basket can be caused by something as simple as the water level being too low in the pool. You might also want to check the skimmer weir. This is a plastic flap at the throat of the skimmer that keeps the debris in the skimmer when the pump is off. If the skimmer weir is stuck, it can cause the skimmer to drain and take in air. Also check that the pump basket lid is on tight and the o-ring is lubricated. Also check that all plugs are tight.

A good trick in locating an air leak is to shut off the motor when it’s under full pumping head pressure, and look for water to spray back; out of the void where the air was entering. You have to be quick to catch this spray-back! This void will always be before the impeller. After the impeller is what we call “the pressure side.”  Any leak or void here will leak water out. Any leak or void prior to the impeller (in front of the pump impeller) will draw air in when the pump is on. The pump will “pump” air if it can, it is the path of least resistance. So, your system needs to be almost airtight to run properly. When you find this void, patch with epoxy putty or silicone, or replace the part if needed.

Air leaks can also be attributed to any of the valves on the suction plumbing. Old brass gate valves, in addition to being troublesome and time consuming, tend to leak after many years of use. Air could also be entering through any glue joint or threaded joint in the plumbing before the filter pump.

By putting the plumbing under pressure, we’re able to locate the leak and make appropriate repairs. You can do this too, by buying a Drain King at your local hardware store, or from us just by clicking on the link. This connects to a garden hose and puts the line under pressure. Putting this in the skimmer, you can turn on the hose and pressurize the line backwards (Also great for clearing clogged pipes!). Remove the pump lid and use a plug at the pump entrance. This will allow pressure to build up in the line and squirt out at the leak. Many suction side leaks such as this are repaired with pool putty, or a more permanent plumbing repair / pipe replacement can be made.

Pool losing water?

If your pool loses water only when the pump is on, the leak is probably on the pressure side. The leak detection process pinpoints the area under suspicion, where the appropriate repair can be made. If the pool loses water only while the pump is off, we look towards the suction side. And if it leaks all the time, well…it could be anywhere. It is important to repair leaks to prevent erosion of earth that may be supporting key areas of the pool and equipment. In addition, leaks can waste several hundred gallons of your filtered, heated and chemically treated water per day!

Valving and plumbing confusing? is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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Gate Valves

Gate valves are very similar to a faucet style knob in your bathroom or the garden hose spigot outside. These type of valves are not a common pool valve on new installations, but were the only valve used on pools over thirty years ago.

These valves are commonly found to be leaking air and or water. You can repack the valve using plumber’s tape, if the valve is leaking air or water from under the nut. These valves may be easier to replace with something of a plastic variety if they leak or if the handle just spins and spins….

Gate Valves is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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The removable lid makes these pool valves serviceable in the event of a clog or the breakage of internal parts. The 3 way design (shown) allows for plumbing flexibility and simplicity. Also available in 2 way design..

What can be confusing for combination valve users is what is happening inside the valve when they turn the handle. Notice in the diagram that the size and curve of the handle, corresponds exactly with the diverter (item #9) inside the valve body. Wherever the curved front of the handle is located, so will be the “door” of the valve.

Important to keep older combination valves lubricated with a Teflon or Silicone lubricant. Newer valves, known as Never-Lube, do not need to be manually lubricated.

Combination Valves is a post from: Swimming Pool Tech Articles & News

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The disadvantage to these valves is that they are not serviceable, that is, they cannot be opened up to make repairs or clear clogs from the valve. The handles on ball valves tend to break rather easily, and they can also be somewhat difficult to turn, especially if installed in an awkward position.

Their advantage is their cost ($10 – $15), and ball valves tend to be easier to understand for novice pool operators than the three way type valve.

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DE Filter Push/Pull Valve (Backwash) Position: When the push/pull handle is in the up position, the filter reverses the flow allowing the dirty water to go out the waste line or backwash hose.

DE Filter Push/Pull Valve (Filter) Position: When the push/pull handle is in the down position the filter is filtering the water and returning it to the pool.

SAND Filter Push/Pull Valve (Backwash) Position: When the push/pull handle is in the down position the filter reverses the flow through the filter sending the dirt to the waste line or backwash hose.

SAND Filter Push/Pull Valve (Filter) Position: When the push/pull handle is in the up position the filter is filtering the water and returning it to the pool.

Types of Backwash Valves

PUSH-PULL VALVES

The push-pull valve, also called slide valves, mounts on to bulkhead fittings on the side of a Sand or D.E. filter. The advantages of a Push-Pull valve are that they are simple to use, simple to understand, have very few parts, and are less restrictive to water flow than the multi-port valve.

Push-Pull Valves use a plunger with two disks (see diagram above). The only action is to either pull the handle up, or push the handle down. Sand filters usually operate in filter mode with the plunger in the up position, and backwash by pushing the handle down (always shut off pump before changing a backwash valve). D.E. filters are usually in filter mode when the plunger is down, and backwash by pulling up on the handle.

When you pull up or push down on the plunger of a push pull valve, you are reversing the direction of water into and out of the filter. (which is where we get the word “back-wash”).

How Long do I backwash my filter for?

Backwash until the water runs clear out the waste line. Usually about 2 – 3 minutes. You may need to add water to the pool before or after backwashing. On a D.E. filter, the last step is to add the fresh D.E. powder to the filter, through the skimmer.

When do I need to Backwash?

When the pressure gauge indicates a pressure rise of 8 – 10 lbs above the clean, or start-up pressure.

What Maintenance do I need to do for my Slide Valve?

Lubricate the valve o-rings at least once per year. Remove the plunger from the valve body and apply a Teflon based lubricant like Magic Lube.

Help! My Slide Valve leaks out the waste line all the time!?!

You most likely have “blown a gasket”. Remove the plunger from the valve body and inspect for broken or missing disc o-rings.

Multiport Valves

The multiport valve, also called MPV valves, mounts on to bulkhead fittings on the side of a Sand or D.E. filter. The advantages of a Multiport valve are that they have, well, multiple ports. This allows for more options than simply Filter or Backwash.

Multiport valves usually have 6 positions (Some Jacuzzi valves have 7 and some American valves have 8). The positions are usually labeled: Filter, Backwash, Rinse, Recirculate, Closed and Drain/Waste. These are described below in more detail.

When you move the multiport valve from Filter to Backwash, you are reversing the direction of water into and out of the filter. (which is where we get the word “back-wash”).

How Long do I backwash my filter for?

Backwash until the water runs clear out the waste line. Usually about 2 – 3 minutes. You may need to add water to the pool before or after backwashing. On a D.E. filter the last step is to add the fresh D.E. powder to the filter, through the skimmer.

When do I need to Backwash?

When the pressure gauge indicates a pressure rise of 8 – 10 lbs above the clean, or start-up pressure.

What Maintenance do I need to do for my Multiport Valve?

There really is no maintenance on a MPV. Just make sure to winterize properly if you are in the snowbelt.

Help! My Multiport Valve leaks out the waste line all the time!?

You most likely have “blown a gasket”. Remove the lid and handle assembly from the valve body and inspect for warped or damaged spider gaskets.

Help! My Multiport Valve leaks out the top cover all the time!?

Beneath the lid, there are several washers, a spring to give tension to the handle, and some stem o-rings on the stem that connects to the handle. One or more of these may need to be replaced. You can also purchase a Key Assembly, which is every-thing that comes out of the valve body when you remove the cover screws and lift it out by the handle. You can view a schematic of your valve in our valve parts department.

MULTIPORT VALVE POSITIONS

1. 

   FILTER: Keep it here 99% of the time, except when backwashing, rin sing or wasting.

2. RINSE: Use this setting for about 20 seconds after backwashing to rinse tank.
3. RECIRCULATE: Use this if the filter’s broken; at least you’re circulating the water.
4. BACKWASH: Use this setting to reverse the flow in the filter and send water out of the waste line. Make sure valves are open or hoses rolled out.
5. CLOSED: Put here to close off flow from the pool, usually to work on the equipment. Do not operate pump with valve in closed position.
6. WASTE/DRAIN: Another filter bypass setting (like Recirculate), but this setting sends the water out of the waste pipe (hose), instead of returning it to the pool. Used to lower pool water level or to vacuum to waste if vacuuming fine, silty debris or algae.

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